Towering within the rugged expanse of the Bugaboos, Roof McTech stands as a compelling test of alpine trad climbing, stretching over 500 feet across five demanding pitches. This route offers a blend of technical hand cracks and exposed laybacks that push climbers’ skills and composure amid these soaring granite spires. From the moment you step onto the first pitch, you’re engaging with sharp, slightly unsettling flakes that lead into a steep hand crack—the heartbeat of the climb’s initial challenge. Pulling through this technical crux earns you respite beneath a prominent roof, where the rock’s coarse texture invites you to rest, recharge, and prepare for the strenuous layback sequence ahead.

Exiting the roof requires a careful lieback, feet searching for sparse but dependable edges, testing your balance and endurance as you approach the awkward lip. Here, precise hand placements become critical, as the feet find less secure holds high and wide. Surmounting this lip reveals a satisfying hand crack that climbs easily but demands focus, guiding you over the top of the initial flake to a ledge equipped with a two-bolt anchor.

Alternately, a recommended variation on pitch two steers climbers slightly left, ascending a finger crack that threads along a subtle arete, eventually joining the classic energy crisis finish. This variant delivers consistent challenge without the loose, crumbly sections found along the direct pitch two, presenting a safer and more enjoyable path that maintains the route’s demanding nature.

Protection throughout Roof McTech is straightforward yet requires a standard rack up to a size 3 cam with doubles of typical sizes—no fiddly micro nuts or cams needed. This allows a smooth flow as you place gear in solid cracks, avoiding unnecessary complexity amid the alpine setting.

The approach to the base involves a trek through alpine gravel fields and forested slopes rising from the trailhead near the Bugaboos’ core. Expect well-marked paths with moderate elevation gain that serve as an appetizing prelude to the route’s physical demands. The coordinates 50.75 latitude and -116.77 longitude bring you to a climbing arena defined by sharp granite, brisk mountain air, and panoramic views of the Purcell Mountains stretching beyond.

Ideal timing on Roof McTech is late summer into early fall, when stable weather dominates and the granite dries quickly after rain. The route’s east-facing orientation means mornings deliver cool, shaded climbing, warming under midday sun—plan your summit push accordingly to avoid heat exhaustion or damp holds.

Committed descent involves rappelling from bolted anchors to reach the base safely, emphasizing the need for careful rope management given the route’s alpine exposure. Loose rock and narrow ledges demand cautious movement—one slip could mean a long drop.

Roof McTech presents a gratifying blend of technical climbing and alpine grandeur. It challenges climbers of 5.10+ ability to engage with delicate crack systems and exposed sequences framed by one of British Columbia’s most spectacular granite landscapes. With thoughtful preparation, precise gear, and an eye on weather, this route promises an unforgettable mountain adventure — where the rock dares you to push your limits and the mountains quietly applaud your effort.