"Reach Around offers a challenging, single-pitch trad climb packed with steep cracks and a memorable offwidth. Located on Paint Mountain near Haines Junction, this route mixes history with demanding moves in a rugged alpine setting."
Reach Around stands as a testament to the raw and rugged character of Paint Mountain’s alpine climbs, located in the wilds of Yukon Territory. This single-pitch route stretches over 80 feet of demanding rock that commands respect and focus. The climb begins with a strenuous ascent up a steep crack system, where the rock’s dark hues catch your eye and hint at the route’s gritty personality. Early moves require precise jamming and solid footwork, especially around the initial corner where climbers must choose between powerful jams or delicate layback techniques to reach a brief but welcome rest.
The heart of the climb delivers an imposing offwidth section beneath a small roof that challenges your endurance and gear management. Here, deep hand jams give breathing space from the sustained effort, but protection placement is critical — it's the moment where #4 cams really earn their keep, and having a #5 at hand is strongly advised. Tackling this section demands both mental grit and a practiced technique to overcome the seemingly unyielding rock that dares you forward.
After powering through the offwidth, the route eases in angle, offering subtle face holds along a corner that guides you upward with a mix of stemming and careful foot placements. The relentless steepness gives way to a thoughtful climb towards the final anchors, where the expansive northern vistas remind climbers why they endure these demanding alpine ascents.
Located above the valley near Haines Junction, Paint Mountain’s setting rewards adventurers with rugged solitude and stillness broken only by the mountain winds. The approach winds through forested foothills, blending evergreens with rocky ridges whose surfaces reflect decades of weathering. This route’s history enriches its appeal; first attempted in the 1990s by Paul Henstridge and a companion, the climb embodies grit and persistence. The climb’s original name, reflecting the striking color of its rock, lingers in stories told among local climbers.
Gear considerations are straightforward but crucial: double sets from .75 to #4 cams are essential, while a single #5 cam helps tame the offwidth monster. Smaller cams (.4 and .5) offer optional but useful placements on the approach to the crux. The rock quality demands careful protection placements—the cracks provide solid holds, but slippage on poor feet near the corner can unsettle the climb’s rhythm.
Timing this climb for late summer to early autumn offers the best conditions—long daylight hours and stable weather patterns make for safer and more enjoyable ascents. Morning climbs benefit from sun warming the shaded north-facing wall, easing the chill that can settle in high alpine environments. Descending involves a straightforward rappel from the anchor station, but climbers should remain vigilant about loose rock and ensure proper rope management for a clean, safe descent.
Whether you’re chasing a memorable alpine experience or eager to unlock a lesser-known trad route in Canada’s north, Reach Around deserves a place on your climbing radar. It rewards commitment and sharp technique with a route that pushes both physical and mental boundaries amid the striking backdrop of Yukon’s wilderness.
Watch for tricky gear placements in the offwidth—protection must be solid to guard against falls in this steep section. The descent is a rappel that requires attention to rope drag and loose rock near the top anchors. Avoid climbing during wet or icy conditions to minimize slipping hazards.
Plan your climb for late summer when rock is dry and weather stable.
Carry double sets from .75 through #4 cams, plus a #5 for the offwidth.
Prepare for an exposed, steep crack climb with minimal rest spots early on.
Rappel carefully from the anchors and watch for loose rock on descent.
Protection requires double cams from .75 to #4, with a single #5 strongly recommended to tackle the offwidth section. Optional smaller cams (.4 and .5) help on the lower crack runs. Placements are solid but require careful gear management, especially in the offwidth.
Upload your photos of Reach Around and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.