Tucked away in the rugged expanse of British Columbia’s Selkirk Mountains, the Proteus Glacier route offers adventurers a blend of alpine challenge and natural splendor. Starting from the Houston Lake campsite, the journey begins with a steady trek westward into the valley carved by the old Houston Glacier. The trail rises along a prominent rock rib to the climber’s left side of the Proteus Glacier, providing a solid pathway that skirts much of the unpredictable ice. When conditions allow, crossing over to the right side of the glacier becomes a practical choice, navigating up to a broad, relatively flat glacial basin just below the south ridge.

This rocky approach sets the stage for the key section of the ascent—the south ridge itself. Rated an easy 5th, this portion involves some hands-on scrambling with solid rock holds, demanding climbers be comfortable with exposure along a ledge that feels like a narrow sidewalk carved into the mountain’s flank. The summit, sitting just beyond this exposed traverse, rewards with sweeping views of the surrounding Columbia Mountains and an undeniable sense of accomplishment.

Descending the route retraces partly back along the rocky rib used for the initial approach. This route avoids the steadily retreating glacier and provides a more secure and stable path back down, crucial in today’s conditions where glacial terrain can shift unexpectedly. Climbers should be prepared for a route that is equal parts alpine adventure and technical carefulness.

Provisions for safety include packing a small rack, as protection opportunities are sparse but present—particularly on the rock face leading to the top where an old "Stopper" nut may still be found in a crack about 30 to 40 feet up. This history embedded gear serves as a quiet marker of past ascents and a reminder to move thoughtfully.

Navigation here requires an attentive eye: from lush valley floors to high alpine rock, the landscape changes quickly, and the weather can turn just as fast. Protect your climb with solid boots, ready hydration, and due respect for the mountain’s shifting moods. While the difficulty leans toward the moderate side, this climb demands focus and preparation rather than brute strength.

The Proteus Glacier route is a measured, raw experience of wilderness climbing—its quiet glaciers and rocky ribs not only calling for skill but rewarding with the sharp, clear air of high mountain wilderness. For those seeking an alpine route that blends steady terrain with enough edge to keep your senses alert, this line in the Selkirks is a compelling choice.