"Pollos Hermanos delivers a spirited trad climb on Badger Mountain, starting unconventional with a tree ascent and moving into technical right-angling crack climbing. Its short pitch offers a masterclass in protection placement and slab moves for climbers seeking focused challenges near South Platte."
Pollos Hermanos offers a compelling stretch of trad climbing that combines a subtle encounter with nature and technical slab work on Badger Mountain’s rugged face. This route begins with an unusual move—ascending through a sturdy tree that reaches up about 30 feet off the ground, sharing its starting groove with the neighboring route ‘Out on a Limb.’ From this natural platform, the climb heads right toward a single bolt followed by a carefully placed crack that demands precise protection placements and steady footwork. While the initial bolt provides a psychological relief, the runout to the first piece of gear is a reminder that this climb favors both boldness and attention to detail.
The crack itself is a right-angling seam that invites medium-sized cams, notably Metolius 0 and 00, giving added security to the 5.8 PG13 rating. As the route progresses, climbers will face a series of slightly technical slab moves that test balance and friction skills—these moves offer a fine moment to blend calculated caution with fluid motion. The exposure here is moderate but palpable, amplifying the sense of accomplishment as the final bolts lead to a two-bolt anchor providing a solid rappel station.
Badger Mountain’s volcanic rock lends a gritty texture, gripping boots and hands even under the afternoon sun when the rock begins to warm. The approach wends through Badger Flats, crossing well-trodden trails that cut through sagebrush and pine, with views opening toward South Platte and the Colorado foothills. It’s a climb that rewards preparation: sturdy trad rack focusing on smaller cams, sticky rubber shoes for slab precision, and a helmet to manage the occasional falling debris around the tree start.
For climbers exploring the Valley of the Chickens area, Pollos Hermanos stands out for its short-but-meaningful challenge, perfect for honing crack placements and slab technique without committing to multi-pitch endurance. The route’s single pitch spans about 80 feet, striking a balance between approachable length and concentrated technical demand. This climb serves both as a solid training ground and as a memorable adventure where nature’s textures and the route’s thoughtful design converge.
The tree start can hold loose debris, so start with caution and wear your helmet. Pay extra attention to gear placements before committing to the runout section; the protection is sparse but reliable when placed correctly.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun heating the slab, which can reduce friction.
Check your small cam placements carefully, as the runout before the first piece demands precision.
Wear a helmet to protect against occasional loose rock around the tree start.
Approach via Badger Flats, following established trails marked in local climbing maps.
Bring a standard trad rack up to 1 inch, emphasizing Metolius 0 and 00 cams for the crack. A two-bolt anchor finishes the climb, so your usual anchor gear applies. Sticky climbing shoes are recommended for the slab moves, and a helmet is advisable near the starting tree.
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