HomeClimbingPitchfork Tower - From the Depths of Hell

Pitchfork Tower - From the Depths of Hell

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
wide crack
chimney
multi-pitch
off-width
trad climbing
desert canyon
Colorado
Length: 150 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Pitchfork Tower - From the Depths of Hell
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pitchfork Tower offers a bold trad climb with wide cracks and chimney moves set within Colorado’s McInnis Canyons. This two-pitch route presents solid crack climbing, a unique chimney crux, and a remote desert canyon vibe that rewards steady jamming and careful gear placement."

Pitchfork Tower - From the Depths of Hell

Set against the stark, rugged backdrop of Colorado's McInnis Canyons Wilderness, Pitchfork Tower offers climbers a rugged two-pitch trad experience marked by wide cracks and a captivating, almost subterranean feel. This climb embraces simplicity in movement but challenges your ability to read the rock and protect your line on bold terrain. The route begins in a natural corridor wedged between the tower and its adjacent buttress, where a perfect fist crack invites you upward. This crack, hugged by a supportive wall behind, feels steady and secure—inventive hand jams and smooth upward pulls ensure movement stays easy and straightforward. Leaving the hallway, the ascent continues along a clean off-width for roughly 30 feet, demanding a blend of controlled aggression and patience. Cam placements here rely heavily on large cams, with old #4.5 and #5 Camalots fitting snugly to guard the pitch’s moderate exposure. A subtle 'window' in the rock marks the limit where you should set your belay—overshooting this leads to more complex cracks not suited for this climb.

Pitch two transports you through a chimney-like passage that demands a playful, spider-like shimmy, combining chimney technique with careful body positioning. Here, your protection options thin out, primarily relying on massive Bigbro cams to maintain a safety net. The crux lies in committing fully to the chimney’s embrace, where the rock’s rugged texture and the tight squeeze feel like moving through an arched cave carved by relentless natural forces. At the top, climbers face a brief, cautious scramble across crumbly face holds before reaching the summit area. Stepping across the summit ridge toward the down route leads to a small ledge with a bolted anchor—your launch point for the descent.

Descending is straightforward yet requires attention. A single rappel on a 60-meter rope drops you safely to the ledge, followed by a scramble back down the hallway to the base. The approach to Pitchfork Tower via the D3 West Side Trail moves through a lightly forested desert canyon with intermittent bursts of shade and sun, offering a quiet, solitary setting far from the buzz of Grand Junction. Expect varying terrain underfoot—rocky, sandy paths mixed with short scrubby sections, all within roughly a 30-minute approach from the parking area.

Protection is the defining feature here: Bring sizable cams—multiple fist-sized options, old-style #4.5 and #5 Camalots—plus at least one #4 Bigbro to handle the off-width and chimney cruxes securely. Adding a second Bigbro or equal-sized cam can significantly reduce runouts, mitigating potential fall distances on the upper pitches. The rock enjoys a solid reputation for quality, largely sound with occasional crumbly patches that reward careful foot placement.

Pitchfork Tower demands respect for its style: easy but bold wide crack climbing where gear placements can be sparse and the exposure tangible. It’s a route that feels both ancient and alive, the tower itself looming as if daring you to test your skills and composure. The 5.8 rating sits comfortably for those familiar with wide cracks and chimney moves, though the chimney pitch crux bumps the effort beyond pure straightforward climbing. Similar neighboring climbs in the area lean harder on face climbing or mixed styles, making this route a standout for those seeking traditional crack climbing with a unique, almost exploratory vibe.

Timing your climb matters. Morning and late afternoon offer cool conditions, as the canyon walls shift shadows and keep the heat at bay; summer midday can bake the rock, making hand jams uncomfortable and increasing dehydration risk. Water sources are scarce on approach, so pack ample fluids and sunscreen. Footwear with a firm edge and sticky rubber will aid particularly on the face sections and scrambling near the summit.

In all, Pitchfork Tower is for climbers drawn to a moderate challenge combining wide crack mastery with an experience that feels part cave exploration, part classic tower climb. The scene is remote enough to feel like an escape, with views down into Devil’s Canyon extending a rugged reward for your efforts. Approach well-prepared, respect the runouts, and you’ll walk away with a memorable taste of West Slope Colorado’s rough-hewn granite and the quiet thrill of putting together a line few have tread.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of loose rock around the summit scramble, and ensure your cam placements are secure—especially on pitch two where protection is limited. The route can have 30-foot runouts without additional Bigbro cams, so risk tolerance and gear selection are essential. Also, heat exposure in summer months is a concern; plan hydration accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Approach via D3 West Side Trail; expect 30 minutes through rocky and sandy terrain.

Start early or late in the day to avoid midday heat; canyon walls heat quickly under the sun.

Carry ample water—there are no reliable sources near the route.

Use sticky rubber shoes for better grip on crumbly face holds near the summit.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8, Pitchfork Tower holds a rating that’s approachable but precise; its difficulty comes more from gear management and chimney technique than pure physical strain. The chimney crux demands committing fully to a tight space, and the reliance on Bigbro cams for protection makes the pitch feel a bit stiffer than a typical 5.8. This climb compares well to other moderate wide crack routes in McInnis Canyons but stands out for its unusual chimney section and sustained wide crack climbing.

Gear Requirements

Essentials include three fist-sized cams, two old #4.5 and two #5 Camalots for anchoring, plus a #4 Bigbro for protecting the chimney crux. Bringing an extra Bigbro or similar sized cam will reduce a significant 30-foot runout on pitch two.

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Tags

wide crack
chimney
multi-pitch
off-width
trad climbing
desert canyon
Colorado