"Pins Route offers a condensed but demanding trad climb on North Cheyenne Canyon’s roadside cliffs. Expect crumbly slab, a blocky bulge, and sparse, aged protection that calls for careful gear placements and thoughtful movement."
Pins Route on the South Face of North Cheyenne Canyon cuts a modest but gritty line on Colorado Springs' rugged roadside cliffs. This quietly weathered trad route offers a brief but memorable climb that tests your judgment more than your strength. Starting on crumbly slab with rock that feels alive underfoot, the route moves through a blocky bulge and finishes on a headwall where every move demands attention. The protection is sparse and aged, featuring a handful of rusty pitons interspersed with small to medium cams. This PG-13 rating underscores the serious nature of the climb—gear placements require careful scrutiny and long slings to manage rope drag. The voice of history lingers here, hinting at early ascents possibly by Harvey C. or even Army climbers, before the area fell into relative obscurity.
With just one pitch stretching 110 feet, Pins Route is a concentrated dose of adventure that rewards climbers prepared for uncertain protection on a route slightly off the beaten path. A 70-meter rope is essential to reach the bolted anchors placed near a large tree, where the climb either ends with a delicate scramble right or a safer belay setup to assist a second climber. Unlike more polished sport routes nearby, this climb demands a mature approach—it's a patchwork of old hardware and natural protection where the rock's character swings between inviting and precarious.
The approach is straightforward, hugging the roadside of North Cheyenne Canyon, but the real challenge is mental: reading the rock, trusting your gear, and moving deliberately in a place where margin for error tightens. Climbers will feel the canyon’s enduring spirit here—cool breezes sweep past the face, carrying whispers of past ascents and the subtle crackling of shifting stone. Morning light illuminates the angled slabs, carving shadows that reveal the rock’s texture and crucial holds.
For those seeking a brief yet thoughtfully provocative trad experience near Colorado Springs, Pins Route provides a taste of classic climbing where preparation and respect for the route’s character are vital. This one pitch might be short, but it asks for patience, precise gear placements, and a readiness to engage with a route that wears its age like a badge of honor.
Rock quality is variable, with sections of crumbly slab and questionable pro placements. Pitons are rusty and aging, so proceed with care and reinforce anchors where you can. Avoid climbing wet rock, and be mindful of loose blocks especially near the bulge and headwall.
Start early to avoid midday heat and get the best light on the slab.
Inspect old pitons carefully; supplement with modern gear where possible.
Use long runners on pins to reduce rope drag, especially near the bulge.
The safest descent requires belaying the second climber up before walking off west.
Carry a 70m rope to reach the anchors and back it with 5 quickdraws for the old, rusty pitons found sporadically along the route. Bring cams sized 0.5 to 1.5 inches to supplement the limited pro. Long slings will help minimize rope drag on the final moves.
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