HomeClimbingPillar of Hope

Pillar of Hope Trad Climb at Bear Cave Gully

Cape Clear, Canada
off-width
wide crack
multi-pitch
rappel anchors
coastal climb
Nova Scotia trad
Length: 105 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Pillar of Hope
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pillar of Hope delivers an adventurous two-pitch trad climb on Cape Clear’s rugged coast. Expect wide cracks, steep off-widths, and technical hand cracks that challenge skilled climbers in a striking, windswept setting."

Pillar of Hope Trad Climb at Bear Cave Gully

Rising sharply just off the rugged coastline of Cape Clear in Nova Scotia, the Pillar of Hope commands attention beside Bear Cave Gully. This two-pitch traditional climb blends technical crack work with a rewarding sense of exposure, carving through a distinctive pillar that catches the Atlantic breeze. The approach skirts a forested ridge before opening onto a rocky bluff, where salt-washed cliffs meet the elements. The first pitch sets the tone with a wide crack that expands and contracts, challenging your hand and body placements as you navigate steep off-width sections that test your commitment and geartering skills. Progression here feels tactile and deliberate, with the granite’s coarse texture providing reliable holds alongside pockets demanding precise footwork. After a traverse right to a spacious belay ledge, pitch two intensifies the adventure. An overhanging hand crack beckons attention — demanding controlled power and smear technique — before veering right onto a thin-hands crack that leads to the pillar’s summit. From here, the view sweeps across rugged coastline and dense woodland, a quiet reward for your effort. Anchorage relies on solid rings fixed at the top, allowing a single 60-meter rope rappel to descend safely to the rocky shore below.

This climb caters to experienced trad climbers comfortable with off-widths and crack climbing at moderate but sustained difficulties. The 5.9 PG13 rating reflects the need for careful gear placement and respect for the potential fall consequences. The rock’s texture and fractures require a well-rounded rack, particularly a strong set of cams for securing the wide crack pitch. Bear Cave Gully's remoteness adds a layer of solitude and adventure, with only a modest approach to reach the base — a roughly 20-minute walk over uneven but clear trail from the nearby parking area. Timing your climb is best in stable dry conditions, given the exposure to coastal weather patterns. With its distinctive features and solid protection, Pillar of Hope offers an engaging day of traditional climbing infused with the wild spirit of Nova Scotia’s Atlantic edge.

Climber Safety

Rock quality is generally solid but can be sharp and abrasive. The exposed off-width section offers limited rest spots, so climbers should place protection diligently. The rappel descent requires attention to rope length and anchor security—ensure your 60m rope is adequate and rings are intact before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length105 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail involves uneven terrain—sturdy hiking boots recommended.

Check weather conditions carefully; coastal winds can increase difficulty.

Double-check gear placements on the wide off-width crack for added security.

Start early in the day to avoid climbing in warm afternoon sun on the exposed pillar.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 rating presents a balanced but demanding challenge. While the grade itself is moderate, the off-width on pitch one and overhanging hand crack on pitch two demand solid crack climbing techniques and confidence in gear placements. The PG13 warning signals that fall consequences could be significant if protection is not carefully managed. Climbers familiar with local Atlantic coast climbs will find the rating fair, but expect the crux moves to require focus and good footwork throughout.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with emphasis on cams suited for off-width cracks. Fixed rings are in place for anchors at the summit, enabling a straightforward 60-meter rappel descent.

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Tags

off-width
wide crack
multi-pitch
rappel anchors
coastal climb
Nova Scotia trad