Cook's Hole - A Compact Climbing Escape in Francois, Newfoundland

Francois, Newfoundland and Labrador
short approach
wet cave
phone tower
coastal climbing
single pitch
short multi-pitch
solid rock
Length: 350 ft
Type: Traditional, Multi-pitch
Stars
Pitches
single pitch, short multi-pitch
Protected Place
S Coast / Burin Peninsula - Newfoundland
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cook's Hole offers one of Francois’s shortest approaches to a cliff that delivers solid single and short multipitch routes. Marked by a phone tower above and accessed by a brief, scenic trail, this compact crag is ideal for climbers eager for accessible ruggedness and reliable rock quality on Newfoundland’s south coast."

Cook's Hole - A Compact Climbing Escape in Francois, Newfoundland

Rising between 300 and 350 feet, Cook's Hole stakes its claim as one of Francois’s most accessible cliffs, offering an intimate climbing experience with a distinctive edge. Unlike the towering walls that surround it, this crag’s modest height makes it perfect for those seeking quick yet engaging climbs without a long approach. The defining feature that marks Cook’s Hole from afar is a phone tower perched on the summit—a modern beacon guiding climbers toward a crashing sea of rock below.

The approach is a notable advantage here — a well-kept hiking trail rolls gently from a nearby campsite, threading through rugged coastal terrain and forest before delivering you to the cliff base in just about ten minutes. This trail skirts alongside small waterfalls and crosses a narrow bridge, adding a moment of adventure before the real test begins. Once at the wall, climbers encounter a narrow, damp cave carved into the center of the face—a natural gateway to multiple climbing lines.

Though the cliff’s height is modest compared to other nearby bays, the rock quality is solid enough to inspire confidence and exploration. Climbers can choose between single-pitch challenges or venture into short multipitch routes, as this crag welcomes a variety of skill levels and ambitions. One can easily get a satisfying taste of the local granite here before heading to more demanding climbs like those found at Devil’s Bay, located just a day’s venture away.

Among the climbing highlights is the classic route "Breathing Stone," rated at 5.10a. This climb is a favorite for its engaging moves and solid protection. Its rating suggests a route with technical demands but rewarding sequences. While the crag doesn’t flaunt its difficulties loudly, it offers a grounded experience where each pitch rewards with views of rugged coastlines and the quiet hum of wilderness.

Cook’s Hole itself rests at an elevation of roughly 476 feet, adding a faint chill and fresh ocean air to every climb. The area is part of the larger South Coast and Burin Peninsula cluster around Francois. The surroundings offer more than rock faces—expect a raw wilderness feel with forested regions and subtle wildlife sightings, making the climb and approach part of a broader nature immersion.

The weather here ebbs and flows with the Atlantic’s temperate maritime influence. While precise seasonal windows aren’t explicitly outlined, climbers should prepare for changing conditions and plan climbs during the mild summer months for the best experience. The cliff’s orientation and moist cave features suggest checking for dampness before heading up, particularly after rain.

Access is straightforward: from a campsite near the local church in Francois, head south and bear right past the generating station. A steep hill leads to a saddle where a tranquil pond glistens to the west. From here, cross a small waterfall over a bridge and continue toward a rugged stairway hugging the cliff base. The entire hike is brief but scenic, lending a sense that the crag has been a favorite local secret now ready to be shared.

For practical gear, expect to bring a standard rack suitable for single- and short multipitch climbs, though specifics on protection styles were scarce. The presence of a wet cave and coastal spray means climbers should be prepared to manage damp rock surfaces sensibly.

In summary, Cook's Hole presents an inviting, manageable climbing destination with a straightforward approach, solid rock quality, and a taste of the rugged Newfoundland coast. Whether you’re looking to warm up on a simpler crag or add a few short pitches to your itinerary, this spot rewards with reliable climbs and a slice of wild island climbing.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of damp rock near the cave feature—slippery holds can occur especially after wet weather. The approach includes a short steep hill and crossing a waterfall bridge; use care on wet or icy terrain. Always verify gear placement on possibly exposed edges.

Area Details

TypeTraditional, Multi-pitch
Pitchessingle pitch, short multi-pitch
Length350 feet

Local Tips

Approach from the campsite near the church heading south, then bear right past the generating station to the saddle.

Prepare for a brief but steep hill and a crossing over a small waterfall via a bridge.

Check rock conditions carefully around the narrow wet cave midway up the cliff before climbing.

Plan your climb primarily for summer months for the most reliable weather and drier rock.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The rating here, exemplified by Breathing Stone at 5.10a, suggests technical climbing that challenges but doesn’t overwhelm. The area's grades feel straightforward without known sandbagging, making it approachable for intermediate climbers. The compact nature of the cliff offers an accessible introduction to Newfoundland’s south coast climbing compared to larger, more committing nearby walls.

Gear Requirements

This crag features a short approach with solid rock quality suited for single and short multipitch trad climbing. Expect to bring a standard rack; specific protection types are not detailed but prepare for damp conditions due to a narrow cave and coastal moisture.

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Tags

short approach
wet cave
phone tower
coastal climbing
single pitch
short multi-pitch
solid rock