"Pick Ax’r Shovel provides a peaceful trad climbing escape in northern Vermont, featuring shaded short crack climbs perfect for those new to trad lead. Easy access and classic routes like Middle Crack (5.5) make it an inviting spot to hone your trad skills amidst quiet forest surroundings."
Pick Ax’r Shovel offers a modest but rewarding trad climbing experience steeped in the tranquil forest atmosphere of northern Vermont. This shaded crag, sitting at approximately 938 feet elevation, invites climbers seeking an approachable introduction to trad leading without the crowds or complexities of larger crags nearby. With a handful of short cracks framing the rock face, it’s ideal for newer trad climbers looking to build confidence and skill on straightforward lines such as Middle Crack (5.5) and Right Crack (5.4), both classic routes garnering solid reviews for their balance of ease and engaging crack climbing.
Approaching Pick Ax’r Shovel is an easy, pleasant walk from the upper parking lot. Follow the climber’s trail cut-off downhill as though heading to the Bee's Crack Balcony trail. Upon reaching the balcony trail, the modest buttress with visible crack systems appears—offering a peaceful place to focus on your feet and hands without distractions. The forest canopy provides shade that keeps the rock cool during warmer months, making it a comfortable spot for climbing even on bright summer days.
Access is seasonal and subject to raptor closures, a protective measure that honors Vermont’s wildlife regulations and ensures the area remains sustainable for frequent visitors. Check cragvt.org for the latest updates before planning your trip. Climbers can anticipate a quiet environment that respects nature and encourages low-impact climbing.
Pick Ax’r Shovel’s routes, while limited in number, deliver solid introduction to trad climbing fundamentals. The rock quality suits short crack climbs perfect for practicing gear placements and movement on cracks without committing to lengthy pitches or steep faces. This makes it an excellent stop for climbers wanting to transition from sport or gym climbing to trad, or those simply after a relaxed climbing session in a scenic setting.
The approach trail is manageable with well-maintained footing, but expect a slight downhill trek from the upper parking area; plan on about 10-15 minutes of walking to reach the crag. While the area is tucked away enough to feel private, it is still easily accessible making it a great option for day trips. Vermont’s northern climbing spots, specifically in the Prospect Rock vicinity, offer some solid opportunities for growing your trad repertoire without the crowds sometimes found at bigger crags.
Classic climbs here include Middle Crack (5.5) and Right Crack (5.4), well-regarded for their straightforward crack climbing and approachable difficulties. These lines provide a good learning environment to focus on gear placements, movement technique, and route reading. Climbers with a basic rack will find themselves well equipped, as the climbs don't demand extensive specialized gear.
Pick Ax’r Shovel’s setting in a quiet tract of northern Vermont forest emphasizes a no-frills experience. It’s about getting out in the woods, sharpening trad skills, and enjoying low-key routes beneath the shade of tall trees. Whether you’re preparing for harder trad routes elsewhere or simply want a calm, shaded spot to get some crack climbing in, Pick Ax’r Shovel delivers on these essentials.
For those aiming to explore beyond, nearby classic Vermont climbing areas offer a range of challenges and styles. However, Pick Ax’r Shovel stands out for its easy access, well-protected environment, and welcoming climbs for beginners. Its compact selection of routes makes each climb feel deliberate and approachable, without the risk of getting overwhelmed by choices.
Prepare by checking seasonal closures, bringing a rack geared for short cracks, and packing for a light forest approach. The descent from the climbs is straightforward — an easy walk back via the same paths you came in on. With its low-angle, shaded walls, Pick Ax’r Shovel is a fine place to soak in early trad climbing vibes while savoring Vermont’s calm, wooded landscape.
Be mindful of seasonal raptor closures that protect nesting birds—access is restricted during parts of the year. The approach involves walking downhill on natural trails which can be slippery when wet, so hike with care and watch your footing.
Check cragvt.org for seasonal raptor closures before you go.
Park at the upper lot and take the climbers' trail cut off—follow the path downhill about 10-15 minutes.
Bring a light rack focused on small to medium-sized cams for these short crack climbs.
Plan your climb in spring, summer or fall to avoid winter inaccessibility and benefit from shaded walls.
This crag features short cracks that are perfect for learning trad placements. A basic trad rack with small to medium cams and nuts will cover the gear needs here.
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