Perched high above the trail that winds through Vermont’s Northern woods, Main Cliff commands attention from its vantage point, visible directly below the overlook accessed by The Long Trail. This cliff's raw landscape is defined by a steep talus field that tests your approach and a rugged rock face that invites climbers of varying skill levels to engage with Vermont’s distinct granite. The atmosphere here leans into a primal wilderness feel — but with practicality in mind, the hike and descent demand awareness and respect.

To reach Main Cliff, most climbers begin near Taboo Crack, moving climber’s right before ascending the talus. This section of the approach is noticeably steep and strewn with broken glass in places, a reminder to tread carefully to protect both self and environment. The base of the cliff itself warrants caution, as the unfortunate habit of some hikers tossing trash over the edge has left debris behind. Carrying out all waste is essential to preserving the clean, natural rhythm this crag strives to maintain.

The wall faces a mix of directions, generally benefiting from all-day sun during warmer months, though seasonal weather can shift quickly in Vermont. Spring through fall offers the best climbing windows, but it’s important to monitor for seasonal raptor closures to ensure responsible access. Checking resources such as cragvt.org is highly recommended before your trip.

Main Cliff’s routes stretch from beginner-friendly 5.4 pitches like No Eyed Dear, up through more demanding 5.10b climbs such as Insecticide. The vertical profiles blend crack systems and finger pockets, demanding solid gear placement and a calm head in exposed positions. Each climb carries a distinct character shaped by Vermont’s granite — sturdy, textured, and at times quite gritty. Noteworthy classics include Buy the Farm (5.7) and Chipmunks on Espresso (5.8), perfect for those honing their trad skills on sustained moderate pitches.

Gear-wise, expect to bring a traditional rack suited for finger to hand-sized placements; tri-cams and a double set of cams will serve well on the varied crack sizes. Horns and pins are sparse, so protection is mostly natural, with an emphasis on solid placements. Helmets are a must given the talus approach and occasional loose rock.

Descending from Main Cliff generally involves retracing your steps down the talus field — take care to maintain careful footings on loose rock. No established rappel stations exist, so plan accordingly and allow time to hike out as daylight fades.

For locals and visitors alike, the allure of Main Cliff is not only in the climbing but in the full outdoor encounter the area offers. Sweeping views from the overlook blend with the raw textures of the climb to create an experience that is equal parts endeavor and escape. And while the cliff remains less crowded than some Vermont crags, its offerings of solid trad lines and a demanding approach reward those ready to meet the cliff on its terms.

Before heading out, pack water, a detailed topo or route guide, and check for any recent access updates concerning seasonal closures. Main Cliff is a solid pick for adventurers who want a combination of wilderness hiking, route diversity, and that pure grit of New England trad climbing.