Phaethon is a trad climb that offers a measured taste of adventure amid the rugged contours of Unaweep Canyon near Grand Junction, Colorado. This route unfolds over two pitches, totaling about 300 feet of polished granite that demands focused footwork and steady hands. From the ground up, you face a right-facing corner on the first pitch—a line that begins with a straightforward 5.7 layback but quickly requires you to read the rock carefully. Early on, the first ascent involved a subtle move out right before returning into the corner, a reminder that rock can conceal subtle puzzles.

The second pitch steps up the intensity on patches of black rock, where jugs give way to a challenging leftward pull on a roof rated 5.8 that transitions into finely textured cracks demanding finger strength and controlled movement. These twin cracks, known locally as “The Chariot Tracks,” stretch for forty feet across a smooth face before leading you upward to a comfortable belay ledge. Above this, an exposed 50-foot section of fourth-class terrain awaits, bringing you to the summit.

Geologically, the granite’s character pushes climbers to engage with its tight seams and sporadic holds, while nature’s slow wear exposes areas clad in lichen—best cleared before you climb for added security. The rock encourages a quiet respect; it challenges without overwhelming, calling on climbers to balance care with curiosity.

Approaching the climb involves a well-tread trail into Main Canyon of the Sun Towers area. It’s accessible but requires preparedness—the terrain is steady but sparsely shaded, with temperatures spiking in sun-soaked afternoons. Early morning ascents or cooler seasons will serve you best. Plan plenty of water; the dry Colorado air demands steady hydration.

Protection is straightforward for those with a standard trad rack. Bring cams and nuts suited to finger and hand cracks, and a wire brush is crucial to dislodge lichen from the second pitch’s twin cracks for secure placements. The climb’s two pitches reward those who respect the rock and read it closely, blending technical moves with a natural progression across exposed granite slabs.

Phaethon is not a beginner’s route, but it offers a rewarding challenge for intermediate trad climbers looking to test their crack skills and roof maneuvers in a stunning, less-traveled canyon. The close proximity to Grand Junction means you can plan a day trip or a weekend with nearby amenities, yet the canyon maintains a quiet, non-commercial feel that keeps the experience pure and focused on the rock.

Descending the route is straightforward via a walk-off over the ridge, but the final section demands careful footing on loose rock. Clear, deliberate steps on the descent prevent slips and ensure you leave the climb with both the memory of its moves and a respect for the terrain. In the end, Phaethon offers a tangible connection to Colorado’s granite heritage and a precise, gratifying climb that tests your skills without excess fuss.