Rising sharply above the rugged terrain of Ha Ling Mountain in Alberta’s Bow Valley, the Orient Express (Direct) route carves its path along the imposing north face, a steep and raw wall that tests every ounce of a climber’s skill and resolve. This venerable 10-pitch trad climb covers 1,800 feet of vertical terrain, winding through a mix of solid cracks, flakes, and corners, demanding focus and respect from start to finish.

From the base, climbers launch straight beneath a prominent upper dihedral that slants right, a guidepost on this steep prow. The approach to the first pitch involves careful scrambling over ledges before the rock asserts itself with an off-vertical left-facing corner that transitions into slabs requiring careful footwork and precise hand placements. Early pitches show signs of loose rock, a reminder that this mountain retains its wild heart — vigilance on footing and holds is necessary.

As the route ascends, the quality of rock improves noticeably, rewarding those who push upward with increasingly confident holds and natural protection placements. Higher pitches weave through steep cracks and roofed sections that challenge endurance and technique. The crux pitch six demands a bold, athletic move past an overlap, using a rare mono pocket hold to pull over a lip — a physical and mental barrier rated 5.11d, marking the hard edge of the climb. Subsequent pitches expose climbers to long technical face moves interspersed with crack climbing, blending jagged edges and smooth slabs that require efficient gear placements and trusting your feet on tiny edges.

This route’s protection calls for a versatile rack, including doubles of cams and nuts, backed by a handful of pitons to safeguard tricky placements where natural gear can be sparse or marginal. While fixed bolts have been added to key belays and crux sections for reliability, much of the protection depends on traditional placements, reinforcing this climb’s classic character.

Situated just outside the town of Canmore, Ha Ling delivers not just challenge but spectacular alpine views — sweeping vistas of the Bow Valley framed by towering peaks clad in evergreens. The north-facing wall keeps climbers cool during summer ascents, but be mindful that conditions can shift quickly in these mountains, with rain and cold dampening the rock and increasing risk of slips.

Experienced climbers will appreciate that the route has evolved from aid-assisted beginnings into a pure free climb line, demanding solid 5.11d skills while remaining accessible on the 5.9 Left Variation for those seeking a slightly easier but still rewarding experience. This adaptability makes Orient Express a favorite for those returning to test themselves at different skill levels.

Planning your trip here means aiming for stable weather, light packs, and early starts — the approach trails vary from straightforward bushwhacks to scrambling over rocky shelves, requiring sturdy footwear with solid grip. Bring plenty of water and layered clothing, as the alpine sun can shift to chilling winds rapidly.

With a storied history punctuated by bold first ascents through rain and uncertainty, the Orient Express at Ha Ling commands respect and rewards patience. It is a climb where every pitch reveals texture and story, where the rock itself seems alive, urging the climber onward through crack and corner. Prepare well, climb thoughtfully, and experience a classic route that remains an essential part of Alberta’s climbing heritage.