"This 82-foot 5.9 trad climb on Copper Mountain's Dusk Wall offers a focused, crack-based ascent with secure gear placements and an anchored top-out. Perfect for those looking to sharpen trad skills amid Northern BC’s quiet wilderness."
Set against the rugged backdrop of the Shangri-Low Dusk Wall, One Who Flew Over the Hornets Nest presents a concise but solid introduction to trad climbing in Northern British Columbia’s Copper Mountain area. This single pitch 5.9 route stretches 82 feet through a textured rock face that demands focus, with natural cracks inviting well-placed gear up to three inches. As you ascend, the rock’s gritty surface offers reliable friction, while the bolted anchor with rings at the summit ensures a secure top-out and rappel point. This climb sits on the northern edge of Copper Mountain’s climbing zones, acting as a practical stepping stone when paired with nearby Loose Tooth—together, they carve a route up toward Sangri-La Wall.
The approach itself is straightforward but unpaved: expect forested trails peppered with damp roots and old-growth whispers, leading you into a quiet clearing beneath the imposing dusk wall. The area is a diamond in the rough, far from crowded crags, where the air carries the coolness of coastal forests and the faint buzz of distant rivers. Timing your climb here in the late spring through early fall offers the best dry conditions, as rainfall is common and can quickly chatter holds loose.
Equipment-wise, carrying a standard trad rack with emphasis on cams up to 3 inches is essential—smaller gear won’t hold back the full potential of the route’s offerings. The bolt anchor’s reliability eases any worries about gear placements at the top, allowing you to focus on steady, controlled movements throughout the climb. It's a great choice for climbers looking to sharpen crack climbing skills without committing to multi-pitch complexities.
Whether you’re drawn to its moderate challenge or its role as a gateway to greater adventures on Sangri-La Wall, One Who Flew Over the Hornets Nest embodies the spirit of exploration in a wild and less-traveled corner of BC. With solid rock, accessible protection, and an inspiring setting, it invites a practical approach to climbing paired with the thrill of discovery.
Watch for loose flakes near the base after wet weather; while the main climbing line is solid, loose rock can lurk near the trailhead and on ledges. Always double-check gear placements, as some sections demand precise cam sizing.
Avoid climbing after rain as the rock can become crumbly and slick.
Use sticky rubber shoes for optimal grip on the gritty face.
Pair this climb with Loose Tooth for a longer day in the Dusk Wall area.
Start early to catch the best light and avoid afternoon shadows.
A standard trad rack with cams up to 3 inches is needed for secure placements. The route features a bolted anchor with rings at the top for safe belay and rappelling.
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