HomeClimbingOdaray via East Face & SE Arete

Odaray via East Face and SE Arete: A Classic Trad and Ice Route in Yoho National Park

Lake O'Hara, Canada
glacial ice
broken limestone
ridge traverse
alpine trekking
easy technical
Yoho National Park
Length: 2000 ft
Type: Trad, Ice
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Odaray via East Face & SE Arete
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Odaray’s East Face and SE Arete route blends gentle glacier ice with broken limestone ridges, delivering a diverse alpine challenge. Ideal for climbers who appreciate a mix of trekking, technical moves, and panoramic mountain wilderness."

Odaray via East Face and SE Arete: A Classic Trad and Ice Route in Yoho National Park

Odaray Mountain commands a rugged presence in Yoho National Park, standing just northwest of the Elizabeth Parker Hut and offering a route rich with a blend of glacier travel, snow hiking, and approachable technical climbing. This journey carries climbers along the East Face into a broad bowl, where you’ll encounter glacial ice with a texture firm but forgiving under your crampons—an inviting playground for those careful on their footing. The ascent begins with a steady Class 2 to 3 scramble over glacial ice, moving towards the ridge line that offers sweeping views of the Rockies’ jagged spines and alpine bowls. Seasoned climbers appreciate the straightforward nature of this stretch, though conditions between glacier and ridgeline demand an eye for rock quality, as fractured limestone patches can test your route-finding and footwork.

Rejoining the historic 1887 line on the SE Arete, the climb transitions into mostly snow and rock hiking, requiring steady legs and attention to footing rather than technical gear. Expect to traverse a couple of rocky bulges, described historically as "two short rock faces." The first obstacle invites a cautious southern traverse to bypass its crumbling edges, while the second—characterized by broken limestone chimney sections—demands climbing moves that reward patience and precision. Though the route’s granite aficionados might find the limestone less polished, it teaches respect for the Rockies’ raw character and challenges climbers to read the rock up close.

The climb unfolds over approximately 2000 feet, gentle in grade but sincere in exposure. Ice screws and ropes are recommended for the ice sections by classic guides, but many today choose to solo these easy glacial stretches, emphasizing good judgment and awareness of conditions. A well-timed approach, ideally in stable weather, positions climbers to savor expansive alpine panoramas while avoiding the pitfalls of unstable rock or late-season snow melt.

Preparation should prioritize reliable footwear with solid edging capability, an efficient layering system to handle changing mountain temps, and navigation skills suitable for this remote corner of the park. The approach from Lake O’Hara is straightforward but demands respect for shifting mountain weather, while the descent retraces the ascent with the option of downclimbing or walking off the ridge, always mindful of loose rock and changing snow surfaces.

Odaray offers an accessible taste of alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies—its combination of glacier, snow, and rock hiking creates an experience that feels expansive yet manageable. Its historical roots and variable conditions call for climbers who balance boldness with care. This route stands as a gateway to the larger wilderness, inviting those who seek a genuine connection with mountain terrain shaped by ice, stone, and cold air that pushes you upward.

Climber Safety

Loose, fractured limestone on the ridgeline demands vigilance to avoid rockfall and ensure solid protection placements. Seasonal variability in snow and ice coverage can alter the route’s character—always assess stability and avoid late melting periods when the rock and snowpack become unreliable.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Ice
Pitches1
Length2000 feet

Local Tips

Check rock conditions carefully between glacier and ridgeline; some limestone sections may be fragile.

Start early to maximize stable snow and ice conditions, minimizing sun-softened hazards.

Wear crampons with good front points to maintain secure footing on glacial ice.

Carry a layered system for quick temperature adjustments amid changing alpine weather.

Route Rating

Difficulty
Easy 5th WI2-3
Quality
Consensus:The Easy 5th and WI2-3 rating offers a balanced difficulty, with the glacial ice presenting straightforward, low-angled technical moves that rarely test beyond basic ice skills. The rock climbing, while short, includes fractured limestone that requires commit ment and careful movement. The grade feels honest—neither soft nor overly stiff—with exposure and route-finding providing the main challenges rather than sustained difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Classic gear includes ropes and 2-3 ice screws per ice leader, though the glacial ice sections are often soloed today. For rock sections, a trad rack covering medium to small cams is recommended to protect the broken limestone chimneys and ridges.

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Tags

glacial ice
broken limestone
ridge traverse
alpine trekking
easy technical
Yoho National Park