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Northeast Ridge of Mount Rexford: A Classic Alpine Traverse

Chilliwack, British Columbia Canada
basalt dyke
alpine ridge
late-season snow
long approach
moderate trad gear
multi-pitch
Length: 3000 ft
Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
12
Location
Northeast Ridge
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Northeast Ridge of Mount Rexford offers a sustained alpine climb that weaves exposed rock and lingering snowfields into a long, rewarding ascent. Ideal for climbers ready to combine steady technical moves with the solitude of a remote British Columbia peak."

Northeast Ridge of Mount Rexford: A Classic Alpine Traverse

Standing at the threshold of the Northeast Ridge, Mount Rexford presents a compelling challenge that balances steady alpine climbing with rugged adventure. This extensive ridge carves a striking divide between the north and east faces, visible as a long, defined line that draws climbers upward through ever-changing terrain. Most adventurers approach from the same trailhead as the popular East Ridge route, following a path that leads to the basin mouth before making a careful ascent up the distinctive basalt dyke on the ridge's south side. Early climbs tackled brushy 5th class rock near the foot, but the route now favors the dyke’s more solid features or a craggier north side alternative, offering choices depending on conditions and preference.

Snow often lingers here well into the warmer months, demanding mountaineering skills over pure scrambling until late season conditions prevail. Once on the ridge crest, climbers navigate a series of pitches ranging from moderate third-class moves to low-5th class sections that flow with steady rhythm—without a standout crux, the challenge lies in stamina and route-finding rather than technical difficulty. Traversing this ridge fully ropeless is a rewarding, fluid experience for confident scramblers, while those pitching each section out can expect a long but methodical day on the rock.

This route isn’t just about the technical ascent—its remoteness and the natural environment provide a deep connection to the landscape. The basalt dyke offers a sturdy spine underfoot, while glimpses of the Fraser Valley and surrounding peaks unfold beneath open skies. Watching cloud shadows drift across the rugged alpine terrain feels like the ridge itself is alive, testing your resolve and persistence.

Protection is straightforward: a small rack of nuts complemented by a few hexes or tricams covers the gear needed. Placements are often secure, though the sporadic nature of cracks means a climber should be comfortable with occasional tricky gear. This modest protection setup makes the line accessible to those easing into alpine trad climbing, but the commitment remains high given the length and approach.

Access begins at the shared trail leading toward Mount Rexford’s East Ridge, winding through subalpine forest and rocky clearings across a well-defined route that demands an early start, especially considering the potential 12-hour round trip. Expect a gradual gain before reaching the basin between ridges—a good spot for rest and final preparations before ascending the dyke to the crest.

Descending this line usually involves retracing steps or downclimbing to regain Centre Creek, especially after climbing the tougher East Ridge. The descent requires care and a clear awareness of terrain, as some sections can be exposed or slippery under variable conditions.

For those pursuing the Northeast Ridge, the experience is both a test of endurance and a chance to engage deeply with a lesser-traveled stretch of alpine rock. Its long, consistent pitches provide a satisfying balance of effort and reward, set against sweeping views and the quiet crunch of alpine snow underfoot.

Climber Safety

Persistent snow on the ridge can obscure holds and complicate protection placement, increasing the risk of slips. Late-season melt cycles also create wet rock sections; approach with caution and be prepared for varying conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Snow, Alpine
Pitches12
Length3000 feet

Local Tips

Start early to allow a full day; expect at least 12 hours round trip.

Snowfields can persist late into the season; check conditions before trusting non-technical terrain.

Use approach trails common to the East Ridge for the most direct access to the basin.

Downclimb carefully to Centre Creek to avoid tricky scrambling after the ascent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
Easy 5th Mod. Snow
Quality
Consensus:The grade of Easy 5th Moderate Snow accurately reflects the route’s steady climbing with minimal technical cruxes. While individual pitches require firm footing and occasional precise moves, the rating feels fair rather than soft, especially considering possible snow and alpine exposure. For climbers familiar with the nearby East Ridge, the Northeast Ridge offers a slightly less steep but more prolonged test of endurance and efficiency.

Gear Requirements

Bring a modest rack of passive protection including nuts and a couple of hexes or tricams. The route’s crack systems are sporadic but generally solid; proactive gear placements keep the climb safe with minimal hardware.

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Tags

basalt dyke
alpine ridge
late-season snow
long approach
moderate trad gear
multi-pitch