The Northeast Buttress of Mt. Slesse stands as a beacon of alpine adventure within the Western Chilliwack Range. This route commands attention not through flashy notoriety but by delivering a steady stream of moderate, sustained climbing that challenges both skill and stamina. Approaching the climb, you move through mingling forests and moss-draped granite, the air sharp with the scent of pine and chill mountain currents. The route stretches over 25 pitches, blending hands-on crack climbs with exposed traverses that place the mountain’s vast features in sharp relief.

This traditional alpine climb balances the rawness of wilderness with technical finesse. Starting near the Propeller Cairn or a nearby wooded knoll, climbers prepare for a multi-day undertaking—often two nights and three days—to comfortably manage the distance and weather uncertainties. The first day calls for careful shuttle arrangements and a robust hike through forested trails and creek crossings, setting the tone for the adventure ahead. Streams scattered along the approach provide natural hydrations points, but carrying two liters of water remains crucial given the effort and relative isolation.

On the granite face, the climb weaves along a series of ledges, dihedrals, and subtle ramp systems. Early pitches skirt a glacier bypass, sidestepping the more technically intense Northeast Buttress Direct 5.10C variant. From here, the route carves back and forth on the ridge crest, occasionally stepping aside to negotiate a prominent gendarme. Many variations exist, letting climbers tailor their challenge—such as the 5.10A pitch on the crest at around pitch 14, though the main line follows a left-facing dihedral with a compelling mix of 4th to 5th-class moves.

Above the midpoint, a significant bivouac ledge offers space to rest, sheltered from the elements and perched beneath a permanent snowfield that feels both inviting and formidable. Leaving this camp involves straightforward scrambling for several pitches, leading to the route’s most rewarding climbing in the final six pitches—solid granite features that blend technical pitches with wide views and bold exposure.

Safety on this climb hinges on both preparation and respect for the mountain’s remoteness. Glacier crossings add substantial complexity, increasing time on approach and descent and demanding comfort in moving over shifting ice. Weather can shift quickly, so reliable gear and contingency plans are essential. Protection calls for a carefully chosen alpine rack—ranging from small cams to larger pieces—alongside two 60-meter ropes. Gear placement on mossy cracks demands attention; many sections require confidence in runout terrain and variable rock conditions.

Once atop the summit bowl, the descent unfolds via several rappels lined with marker cairns leading back to the forested knoll and eventually to the Chilliwack-Slesse Forest Service Road parking area, about 8 kilometers from the main access road. The route down is steep and technical in places, but well marked, with water sources appearing near trailside springs and seeps. Late descents may demand headlamps, so ensure lighting is ready. Despite its challenge and isolation, the route remains a favorite for those seeking a serious alpine outing away from busy crags.

With around 12 hours to summit from the propeller cairn and a full day of sustained climbing, the Northeast Buttress rewards steady effort and sharp focus. The blend of wilderness, varied terrain, and crack climbing creates a memorable alpine experience that feels pure and demanding in equal parts. If you’re prepared to handle the logistics and keen to experience British Columbia climbing on a grand scale, this route delivers with thoughtful pacing, practical adventure, and moments that bring the mountain’s rugged personality to the fore.