"No Name 3 offers a focused, 40-foot trad climb on clean Unaweep granite with technical face moves leading into a left-facing dihedral. Ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their rack skills in a quiet Colorado canyon."
For those drawn to the quiet rigor of cleaner granite and the subtle tests of traditional climbing, No Name 3 offers a brief but satisfying route amid Colorado’s rugged Unaweep Canyon. This single-pitch climb begins with deliberate face moves, demanding precise footwork and steady hands to find purchase on the slightly textured granite. The wall soon opens into a left-facing dihedral that rewards attention to body positioning and technique. As you ascend, the rock’s cool surface offers moderate friction, though patches of vegetation add an element of nature’s unpredictability and remind you to watch your holds.
Spanning 40 feet, the climb culminates at a secure two-bolt anchor, making it a convenient top-rope or rappelling option if desired. Protection primarily consists of nuts and cams, perfectly suited to the dihedral’s shape and fissures. While the route’s grade sits comfortably around 5.8-, its vegetated cracks suggest taking extra care placement-wise—gear must be carefully placed to ensure reliability.
Located in the Main Canyon sector of Mother's Buttress, this route sits under the broad sky of the Unaweep Granite, a less crowded pocket of Grand Junction’s climbing scene. Climbers can expect a straightforward approach along established trails, with the canyon’s geology shaping the climbing experience as much as the physical effort. The afternoon sun finds the wall in partial shade, offering respite during warmer months but encouraging early starts in summer to avoid the heat.
Preparation tips for No Name 3 emphasize the essentials: sturdy climbing shoes for edging and smearing, a rack with a well-rounded range of nuts and cams for subtle placements, and attention to hydration since the canyon’s dry environment can quickly sap energy. The climb’s simplicity makes it approachable for those adding trad experience to their repertoire, yet the natural challenges keep interest high.
While the route's brevity may leave you craving more, its intimate connection to the raw Unaweep landscape makes every move memorable. The rocky cleft that forms the dihedral can seem to invite you upward like a narrow gateway into the cliff’s granite face—quiet but unyielding. Descending via a short rappel or downclimb, make sure to verify anchor integrity and watch for loose foliage to keep your exit safe and smooth.
No Name 3 exemplifies a pared-back, straightforward trad climb with a focus on technique, solid gear placements, and respectful interaction with the canyon’s natural features. It’s a worthy stop for climbers honing trad skills in a stunning but underappreciated part of Colorado’s backcountry.
The vegetated nature of the dihedral can conceal loose debris, so place gear cautiously and test holds before trusting them fully. Always double-check anchor condition, and be prepared for limited shade on hot days during the approach and climb.
Start early to avoid the midday heat on the south-facing canyon walls.
Check the two-bolt anchor for signs of wear before top-roping or rappelling.
Use shoes with solid edging capability for the initial face moves.
Carry water and plan for limited shade along the approach trail.
Bring a versatile rack of nuts and cams that fit small to medium placements. The dihedral’s cracks suit the pro well but watch for tight placements in vegetated sections.
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