"At Area 13’s far right edge, this sharp 5.10a sport climb offers a demanding arete with three well-placed bolts, blending technical face moves with exposure. Ideal for climbers ready to test precision and control in a high-desert setting."
Rising sharply at the far right edge of Area 13's sun-warmed face, "No More Mister Nice Guy - 10a Variation" channels a focused intensity that challenges climbers with its clean, bolted arete. This single-pitch sport route demands precision and commitment as you follow three strategically placed bolts running along the narrowing ridge, each move inviting you to balance power with finesse. The rock, textured and grippy, offers reliable holds that reward tactile engagement and steady footwork. Around you, the landscape of Clark Canyon opens quietly, the Sierra Eastside’s high desert air ticking with subtle shifts as the sun arcs across the sky.
While the climb is short, the variation adds a layer of complexity by veering along a distinct arete line compared to the main "No More Mr. Nice Guy." Here, the exposure heightens, and each clip counts toward maintaining momentum on this 5.10a challenge. Expect a blend of technical face climbing punctuated by dynamic sequences that engage your core and test your ability to read the rock. The draws are your lifeline, spaced for efficiency, so clipping smoothly will keep you on song.
Starting at the base requires navigating the quiet approach trail from the mammoth-touched edges of Area 13. The terrain is rocky but straightforward, with pine needles cushioning your steps and ambient mountain sounds filling the air—branches brushing softly, distant calls of wildlife, and the occasional rustle from the wind pushing through the canyon. Plan your ascent to avoid the hottest midday sun; early morning or late afternoon offer cooler temperatures and pleasant shading from the canyon walls.
This climb is ideal for those seeking a concise but punchy sport experience in a lesser-traveled section of the Sierra. A moderate rack focusing on quickdraws suffices, with fixed bolts set for runners. Be mindful that the route’s cruxs are compact but sharp, demanding precise movement more than brute strength. Climbers fluent in 5.10a routes will find this variation a satisfying, if brief, taste of technical mastery against a backdrop of rugged natural beauty.
Practical considerations: pack plenty of water given the dry surroundings, ensure a solid helmet for any loose stone near the arete, and double-check your shoes for sticky rubber to maintain the grip needed on the varied holds. Though short, the climb rewards careful planning and a nimble approach, placing you at the edge of rock and sky where adventure and focus meet.
While bolted, the arete can present loose rock shards—wear a helmet and test holds carefully, especially near the top where the rock thins. The approach trail can be slick with pine needles and loose stone; proceed with caution.
Approach on pine-needle scattered trail; wear sturdy footwear to avoid slipping on loose rock.
Best climbed outside of midday heat; mornings or late afternoons provide more comfortable conditions.
Helmet advised—potential for small rockfall near the arete.
Hydrate thoroughly before and after the climb—water sources are scarce near the wall.
Bring a standard sport rack with quickdraws; bolts are fixed and well-spaced, so efficient clipping keeps the flow steady. Sticky rubber shoes enhance grip along the arete's edges.
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