"Situated in California's Clark Canyon near Mammoth Lakes, Area 13 - Right Side offers a collection of longer, moderate climbs accessed by a short scramble. This section features the prominent Inyo Face arete and a handful of classic moderate routes perfect for climbers looking to combine scenic alpine surroundings with solid technical challenges."
Area 13 - Right Side offers climbers a distinctive experience within the rugged Clark Canyon near Mammoth Lakes, California. Characterized by a series of longer routes, most climbs start with a short scramble up pumice slopes, requiring a bit of effort to reach the base. This approach sets the tone for a session that combines accessible adventure with the rewarding chase of managing terrain both on the rock and en route.
The defining feature of this sector is the tall arete known as the Inyo Face, which anchors the left side of the area and draws the eye as a landmark while you prepare your gear. From the base, climbers engage with routes that range in difficulty but lean into the moderate spectrum, offering rewarding challenges without the intimidation of extreme grades. Some classic climbs worth seeking out here include Demasiado (5.7), Backscratcher (5.7), and No More Mister Nice Guy, which presents variations climbing from 5.8 to 5.10a. These routes showcase the character of the rock, demanding steady footwork and balance on longer sequences.
Situated at about 7,800 feet elevation, Area 13 - Right Side sits in an alpine environment where weather conditions can influence a day's success. Approaching the cliff involves a walk up the canyon past the main cliff start, then turning left onto pumice slopes roughly 100 yards from the trailhead. While the terrain is generally straightforward, carrying sturdy footwear and being prepared for loose rock sections is essential.
The climate here favors climbing primarily from late spring through early fall with drier months minimizing precipitation risks. Daytime conditions vary but generally allow for comfortable climbing mid-morning into the afternoon before mountain weather can shift.
Protection here mostly depends on traditional gear placement, with the routes benefitting from well-seated protection opportunities owing to the area's mostly solid rock features. Climbers should come prepared with a standard rack and be ready for single-pitch ascents that test endurance more than explosive power.
Getting down involves simple downclimbing or walking off, so no complex rappelling gear is necessary. This adds a layer of ease for those looking for an all-day climbing trip without the complication of complex descent tactics.
Clark Canyon as a broader climbing zone offers a quieter setting compared to busier crags in the Eastern Sierra, making it a perfect destination when seeking solid moderate routes accompanied by natural beauty without crowds. The local granite offers excellent friction and the landscape’s openness ensures stunning views across the surrounding forested slopes.
For climbers of all levels seeking to experience the varied selections at Mammoth Lakes, Area 13 - Right Side balances approach effort with accessible moderate climbing on longer lines. Whether you’re sharpening your technique on Demasiado or pushing limits on the No More Mister Nice Guy variations, this area rewards focus and preparation with memorable routes and a spacious natural playground.
Be mindful on the loose pumice slope during approach, especially when descending. Rock quality is solid on climbs but remain cautious of loose stones at the base. Weather can shift rapidly at 7,800 feet, so check forecasts closely and be prepared.
Prepare for a brief but loose scramble up pumice slopes to reach the base.
Plan your climb in the late spring to early fall season for the best weather windows.
Bring sturdy footwear to handle the pumice and talus approach safely.
Descent is straightforward via downclimbing or walking off—no rappels necessary.
Routes start after a short scramble up pumice slopes. Protection requires a standard trad rack; the rock quality supports reliable gear placements. Single pitch climbs mean a moderate rack suffices without need for extended systems.
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