"No Left Turn offers a steep, pocketed face climb just right of Cholito in Area 13. With a solid 5.10a rating and tight stemming moves, this 40-foot single pitch blends technical friction climbing with precise gear placements for a concise but satisfying challenge."
No Left Turn stands as a focused sprint of technical sport climbing on the steep pocketed face just right of the Cholito route. This one-pitch climb, stretching roughly 40 feet, demands precise body positioning and effortless stemming to keep the moves fluid and the difficulty manageable. For those willing to test their limits, bypassing the stemming section and heading straight up the face elevates the challenge from a solid 5.10a to a demanding 5.10d, turning every hold into a critical foothold or finger grip.
Located in California's Sierra Eastside near Mammoth Lakes, Area 13 offers more than just vertical climbs — it’s a chance to engage directly with the rough-textured volcanic rock, its pockets and edges ready to reward those with technical finesse. The route’s four-bolt protection and secure anchor provide peace of mind, letting climbers focus entirely on their movement and rhythm. As the sun travels over the wall, the thick granite face sheds warmth, making late morning or early afternoon the prime time to climb when the rock is comfortably warm but not scorching.
Approached via a relatively short hike through the rugged Clark Canyon area, the trail is straightforward but rocky, so steady footwear and good balance will serve you well. Carry enough water and plan for a quick but intense climb that leaves space for both warm-ups and mellow downclimbing afterward. The route suits climbers ready to push grip strength and footwork, rewarding those who keep their feet engaged and body close to the wall for sustained friction.
This climb’s gritty surface hums with steady friction; the pockets seem to invite inquisitive fingers while the stemming section allows breathing room amidst otherwise continuous movement. While not a long route, its tight spacing and technical face climbing create a concentrated dose of Sierra Eastside stone that’s both gratifying and instructive.
Prepare for the limited protection by stemming carefully to avoid swinging falls, and take care on the approach and descent — loose rock and uneven terrain call for alertness beyond the climbing itself. No Left Turn fits neatly into the local climbing scene as a staple test piece, suited for climbers who’ve sharpened skills on nearby moderates and now want a subtle crux that demands precision rather than brute force.
Although well protected with four bolts, the route’s steepness and pocketed holds require careful clipping and controlled movement to prevent pendulum falls. Watch for some loose rock near the approach trail, and stay vigilant on your descent as footing can be uneven and sharp.
Start climbing mid-morning to catch ideal rock temperature without excessive heat.
Wear shoes with excellent friction to manage the pocketed granite texture.
Bring a quickdraw set adapted for sport routes; four draws will suffice.
Scout the stemming variation on the left to save energy if you want a more moderate line.
Four bolts protect the route, with a fixed anchor at the top. The bolting pattern keeps protection straightforward but demands accurate clipping timing, especially when following the straighter, more direct variation at 5.10d.
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