Set against the rugged backdrop of California’s Sierra Eastside, No Fat Chicks offers a compact but engaging trad climb on the south face of one of the Buttermilk Crags. This single-pitch route ascends a distinctly featured left-hand crack that merges with its twin near the top, creating a clear and satisfying line for climbers comfortable with 5.10a trad moves. The rock here is solid, textured granite that demands precise footwork and confident crack technique, rewarding each hand jam and layback with steady upward progress. Approaching the route, the slabs shift from gentle forested slopes into rougher granite ledges, where the air carries the faint fragrance of pine and sun-warmed stone. The climb invites you to read the cracks like a challenging puzzle, testing both patience and power.

The protection is primarily trad, requiring gear placements up to 3 inches—stout cams that fit snugly in the constrictions will keep you safe while allowing for careful progression. The route itself flows smoothly but packs a punch with its 5.10a rating, offering a sustained crux that will push your fingers and feet to engage fully without trapping you in needless struggle. While the climb is short in length, its technical character and astute protection options make it a valued route for those looking to sharpen crack climbing skills.

Getting there involves a moderate hike in the Buttermilk Country, a favorite among Bishop climbers known for its varied slab and crack climbs. The trail winds through sparse pines, the crunch of gravel underfoot matching the steady beat of the nearby Sierra winds. Aim for early morning or late afternoon to take advantage of soft light and cooler temperatures, as this south-facing wall bakes under direct sun at midday. The area is quiet but popular enough to carry a low hum of fellow adventurers seeking their own vertical challenges.

Plan your gear carefully—3-inch cams and a solid rack built for crack work are essentials here. Good approach shoes will ease the hike, and plenty of water is a must in this arid environment. While the route’s difficulty and exposure are manageable, the granite can be unforgiving, so precision and respect for the rock’s demands are key. After your climb, the descent is straightforward; a short walk to your approach trail leads you back without the need to rappel.

No Fat Chicks at Buttermilk Crags captures that sweet spot of accessible yet technical crack climbing within one of California’s most revered climbing regions. For anyone eager to balance hands-on skill-building with the raw pleasure of granite climbing under open skies, this route is a smart, satisfying choice.