"Carving a challenging yet accessible line on Tradistan Tower, No Cherry For Old Men is a seven-pitch trad climb offering solid protection, varied crack climbing, and memorable exposure. It blends adventure with practicality, perfect for climbers ready to explore Durango’s rugged walls."
No Cherry For Old Men offers a compelling mix of moderate technical climbing and a strong sense of adventure, standing tall on the striking Tradistan Tower near Durango, Colorado. Starting in the same dihedral as the well-known Nuggernaut route, this 750-foot, seven-pitch climb carves a deliberate line through cracks and corners, consistently rewarding climbers with solid rock and secure protection. Each pitch varies in character yet maintains a steady flow, from the initial left-facing dihedral to the final fist-to-finger corner that crowns the summit.
The climb’s setting is distinctly raw, perched above the rugged Pine River Trad area, where the mountain's presence feels alive with texture — where blocks occasionally remind you to stay alert, and the north-south facing walls bask in the Colorado sun. Belay stations spread generously along broad, comfortable ledges, often marked by stoic trees that offer brief shade and a moment to catch your breath.
The pitches demand careful footwork and confident crack climbing, with ratings mostly in the 5.6-5.8 range—accessible for intermediate trad climbers but with just enough challenge to keep the experienced engaged. Pitch two introduces an exposed traverse beneath a narrow, inverted roof, testing balance and nerve. Higher up, you’ll negotiate loose blocks on ledges and maneuver around a chockstone, which adds a subtle element of unpredictability.
Protection on this climb calls for a well-rounded rack, including green Alien cams and Camalot #3s, plus a solid assortment of stoppers. The rock quality typically supports secure gear placements, though some sections through loose rock require heightened attention. Two 60-meter ropes are essential given the extended rappels on descent.
The descent involves five rappels, each planned and precise. Starting from the summit cairn, climbers follow cairns to locate a bolted anchor for the first rappel. The sequence drops you safely down through mixed anchors, trees, and bolts, eventually delivering you back to the route's base near the start of Nuggernaut. Familiarity with rappelling rigging and rope management is recommended to move efficiently and safely.
Planning your ascent during late spring through early fall ensures the best conditions, as the rock and ledges dry quickly in the generous mountain sunlight. Early starts avoid afternoon thunderstorms, a common risk in the region during summer. Footwear with sticky rubber and comfortable climbing shoes make all the difference on the varied crack widths and face sections.
No Cherry For Old Men is a route that balances the thrill of traditional climbing with practical ease, offering both impressive views and a palpable connection to the natural features of Durango's rugged terrain. It's an ideal adventure for those seeking a full day of sustained, moderately demanding trad climbing that rewards careful preparation and respect for the mountain’s character.
Loose blocks appear on several ledges, particularly on pitch two and pitch six; approach these sections with caution and test placements carefully. The descent involves multiple long rappels from bolts and trees—ensure your ropes and anchor rigging are secure to avoid mishaps.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in the area.
Plan for five rappels on descent; double ropes are recommended for efficient and safe rappelling.
Wear climbing shoes suited for crack climbing and varied face holds for the best traction.
Monitor rock quality carefully on ledges with loose blocks, especially on pitches two and six.
Bring two green Alien cams, a #3 Camalot, a full set of stoppers, and two 60-meter ropes to safely protect and descend this route. Rock holds solid gear placements but expect some loose blocks on ledges; vigilance is key.
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