"A crisp, single-pitch slab climb in the heart of Tuolumne Meadows, "New Tricks for Old Dogs" challenges climbers with a runout 5.10a that demands balance and focus. Perfect for honing slab technique under wide alpine skies."
In the quieter corner of Tuolumne Meadows, where granite slabs stretch wide under endless California skies, "New Tricks for Old Dogs" offers a brief yet gratifying sport climb. This route presents a straightforward challenge for those familiar with the demands of slab climbing, requiring focus and balance more than brute strength. Positioned just to the right of the more well-known "March of Dimes," it invites climbers to engage with the smooth granite’s subtle features, trusting their feet and reading the rock with care.
The climb is a single-pitch affair, about 40 feet of granite that slopes out beneath you, with only two bolts before reaching a solid, two-bolt anchor. It’s a chance to practice precise footwork on a surface that tests your confidence and technique. The grade of 5.10a R hints at a tricky crux where protection feels sparse, encouraging a measured pace and an acceptance of the runout’s challenge—ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their mental game.
The surrounding environment of Tuolumne Meadows adds to the experience with open skies and a high-altitude freshness that cools the skin as you climb. The approach to the wall is short and accessible, cutting across gentle alpine terrain dotted with wildflowers in warmer months and framed by towering pines that shelter the lower slopes.
Planning your ascent here means preparing for the slab’s exposed nature: sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber will help you lock onto the slightest edges, while chalk is essential to maintain grip on the polished granite face. Expect the sun to warm the rock in the afternoon, so early starts offer cooler conditions and better friction. Keep draws ready for quick clipping and be mindful of loose debris on the ledge below, a minor but real hazard if you’re working low on the route.
This climb’s compact size makes it ideal for a warm-up before tackling longer routes nearby or for an afternoon session to refine friction techniques. It’s an accessible sport climb that quietly tests nerve and balance, rewarding you with a tasteful slice of Yosemite’s iconic granite and a satisfying sense of accomplishment.
Whether you’re refining slab skills or seeking a focused, manageable climb amidst the grandeur of Tuolumne’s alpine setting, "New Tricks for Old Dogs" offers a compelling session with practical climbing beta and alpine ambiance.
Be aware of the limited protection between the bolts which puts extra emphasis on careful placement of feet and controlled movement. The ledge below contains some loose debris; clear the area thoroughly and wear a helmet if solo climbing or in a group.
Start early to take advantage of cooler morning temperatures for better friction on the granite slab.
Keep your draws handy to clip bolts efficiently and reduce time spent hanging on the wall.
Check the ledge below before climbing to clear loose rock or debris that could pose a hazard.
Wear shoes with excellent sole grip to maximize confident foot placements on subtle slab features.
Bring a set of quickdraws for clipping the two bolts on the route. Sticky shoes and chalk are essential for maintaining grip on the slab's polished granite.
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