Rising sharply above the town of Canmore, the NE Buttress, also known as the NE Face of Ha Ling, cuts a bold silhouette against the Alberta sky. This route commands attention with approximately 11 pitches of varied 5.6 PG13 trad climbing, stretching around 1500 feet from base to summit. Its approachable grade and direct line make it a favorite for climbers eager to experience a solid alpine adventure without specialty gear or steep technical challenges. But don’t be fooled by the apparent simplicity; this face offers more than just straightforward climbing. Loose rock and confusing route-finding demand vigilance—and a strong sense of adventure.

From the bottom, the climb begins with a long, low-angle first pitch that feels like a warm-up across loose stone and ledges. This section demands care, as the rock hasn’t entirely settled and a carefully placed rope can prevent unpleasant slips. The route steadily gains complexity as you push upward, transitioning from the scattered rock of the early pitches to crisper, sturdier stone farther up, punctuated by a smattering of bolts and occasional fixed gear that can distract as much as assist.

Pitches three to five highlight this challenge: striking out on the ascent requires focused route-reading, especially where the rock’s natural rhythm breaks and the path twists right and left. Misjudging these moves can lead into terrain with tougher moves—some edging toward 5.8 difficulty—or tenuous ledges that test your composure. The crux of the route lies in negotiating these sections cleanly, where balance and patience win out over brute strength.

From pitch six onwards, the climbing settles into a groove of moderate but persistent difficulties around 5.5 to 5.6, rewarding climbers with clean holds and shaded relief in the later afternoon. Here, finger cracks and corners offer solid placements and memorable moves, especially on the highly praised ninth pitch. This section melds sun and shadow, rock and air, weaving you through natural features that seem to nudge you skyward.

Protection is mostly traditional, requiring a full rack of cams from small wires to #4 Friends, supplemented by 10 to 12 runners. The fixed gear is scattered and not to be relied upon exclusively. This route benefits from solid rock sense and experience placing gear in a mountain environment where the stakes can rise quickly.

Post-summit, the descent’s simplicity contrasts with the climb’s complexity: a scree slope to the back offers an efficient walk-off, while rumor of a rappel descent exists but isn’t commonly practiced. With the route’s history including falls from loose rock and route-finding challenges, caution and helmet use are non-negotiable. Early morning starts are ideal to avoid the afternoon sun that heats the face from July onward, ensuring comfort and safer holds for the entire journey.

Ha Ling's NE Buttress invites climbers of all backgrounds to test their skills on a route that’s approachable but never trivial. It exacts respect with occasional surprises and demands a steady hand on the gear and eyes on the line. For those drawn to alpine trad with breathtaking views of the Bow Valley and a taste for classic Canadian Rockies granite, this climb stands ready to deliver a day packed with both challenge and the kind of satisfaction few climbs achieve.