Set against the stark, sunbaked expanse of California’s High Desert, My Bloody Valentine offers a striking sport climb that demands both finesse and assertiveness. The route sits prominently on The Valentine Wall, part of the Entrance Area Crags in New Jack City. From the moment you step onto the polished slab, you're invited into a test of balance and control. The initial moves require precise stemming technique on slick rock—more about sharp edges underfoot than brute force—setting a tone of deliberate, calculated movement. Soon, a crack/slot appears, coaxing you to lean in and use it as a lifeline to conquer a challenging bulge. Here, the rock shifts from smooth to more textured, as reddish corners lined with flakes and features stretch upward. These hold nuances—some crouching loose or offering a subtle jam—that reward thoughtful foot placement and hand positioning.

The climb’s 70-foot reach culminates at a two-bolt anchor, hanging just out of easy reach after negotiating a few final flakes near the top. The quality of the bolts, six in total plus solid anchors, ensures protection is reliable, allowing climbers to focus on technique without hesitation. Despite a modest star rating hovering around 2.6, the climb offers a well-balanced challenge in the 5.10a range, blending technical slab moves with powerful bulge sequences.

Access is straightforward with a clear approach along well-worn desert trails that slice through scrub and low brush. Plan your climb for the cooler parts of the day—morning or late afternoon—to avoid the desert sun baking the rock to an uncomfortable heat. Moderate hydration is essential; the environment encourages quick drying, but also rapid dehydration when the sun is high.

Beyond the physical demands, the setting fosters a dynamic engagement with the desert itself. Wind brushes across sun-heated stone, the distant calls of birds punctuate the quiet, and the vast blue above offers an endless ceiling to your ascent. My Bloody Valentine balances the thrill of desert climbing with the practicality of dependable gear and accessible terrain—a rewarding line for sport climbers seeking variety beyond the highway-cliff classics.