"Valentine Wall, set on the north end of New Jack City in California’s High Desert, offers accessible desert climbing with a range from approachable moderate routes to technical challenges. This shaded morning wall heats up in the afternoon sun, making it ideal for climbers seeking variety and solitude close to campground comforts."
The Valentine Wall rises as a striking brown and black face perched on the northern edge of the New Jack City formation, a genuine desert climbing spot in California’s High Desert near Barstow. This imposing wall marks its territory across the road from campsite #3, creating an easily accessible hub for climbers ready to engage with quality routes in a rugged, sun-dappled setting. The wall catches the shade in the cooler morning hours, offering relief from the desert heat, before soaking up afternoon sun that brings the rock to life with warmth and texture.
To reach Valentine Wall, adventurers enter Sawtooth Canyon campground and navigate past the welcoming campground host and carefully placed speed bumps. A right turn after the kiosk leads past the restroom facilities, and then climbers pass The White Face wall along with two conveniently located Day Use and Picnic areas. Driving south between rock formations, a wide parking area appears alongside campsite #3, with Valentine Wall visible just ninety feet or so away to the right. At an elevation of about 3,700 feet, this spot balances accessibility with a sense of wild expanse, offering routes that fit a broad range of skill levels.
Valentine Wall’s climbs carry a distinctive High Desert character. The rock’s dark hues contrast sharply with clear skies, creating an inviting palette that guides the eye upward. Classic climbs like Love Potion #9 (5.7) and Victoria’s Secret (5.7) provide solid introductions with dependable protection and flow. For climbers pushing into steeper terrain, routes such as Tear in My Heart (5.11b) deliver sharp technical challenges that reward finesse and strength. Mid-grade classics like Cupid’s Arrow (5.7) and Cupid’s Fever (5.8) offer steady, engaging movement with a desert edge. The well-regarded My Bloody Valentine (5.10a) stands out as a great testpiece, mixing sustained climbing with position. These routes, each rated with solid star reviews, collectively shape Valentine Wall as a place where both novice and intermediate climbers can explore desert rock with confidence.
Though Valentine Wall’s route count hovers around twenty-three offerings, the focus lies not on sheer quantity but on the quality and diversity of climbs available. The surrounding area of New Jack City is known for its desert exposure, sparse vegetation, and wide open views—perfect for climbers who appreciate both the solitude of the desert and the thrill of quality vertical challenges. The nearby campground and picnic areas make it feasible to plan half-day or full-day climbs, with the option to rest and refuel under the sun.
Climbers should note the Wall’s northern orientation. Morning shade can ease early starts, but midday warmth can intensify rapidly, so hydration and sun protection are vital when the afternoon sun hits. The desert climate favors climbs during the cooler months of fall to spring, while the summer heat often drives climbers to seek higher elevation or early starts.
The approach is straightforward with a short walk from the parking at campsite #3. The trail is clear with minimal elevation gain, making the wall accessible for climbers aiming to maximize their time on the rock instead of the trail. Descents typically involve downclimbing or walking off around the base, with no technical rappel required—perfect for those who want an uncomplicated return after an adventurous push to the top.
Protection on Valentine Wall tends to be traditional, with solid placements available. Climbers are advised to bring a standard rack including cams and nuts compatible with desert granite, as fixed hardware is limited. The rock quality holds firm but sand or loose grit can appear on ledges, so brushing holds with attention to safety is recommended.
For those seeking a desert climbing experience infused with a classic vibe, Valentine Wall stands as a bright, accessible beacon. It merges rugged terrain, a solid variety of moderate to challenging climbs, and easy access from campground facilities. Whether aiming to send one of the well-loved classics or exploring new lines on this storied formation, every visit promises the straightforward thrill of desert rock climbing framed by open skies and the stark beauty of California’s High Desert.
Nearby Barstow offers additional amenities and serves as the gateway to this rugged playground, ensuring climbers can fuel up and prepare well before immersion into the raw quiet of the canyon.
Watch for loose sand on ledges and holds especially in the warmer afternoon hours. The relatively short routes require solid route-finding on less-traveled climbs. Staying hydrated and prepared for temperature swings in the desert environment is critical.
Start climbs early to take advantage of morning shade on the wall.
Hydrate well and use sun protection; afternoon sun heats the rock considerably.
Approach is short and straightforward from campsite #3’s parking area.
Descending requires downclimbing or walking off—no technical rappels needed.
Visitors should prepare for a traditional rack with standard cams and nuts. Fixed anchors are limited, so bring gear for clean protection placements. The rock is solid but can have sandy patches on ledges, so bring a brush and keep holds clean.
Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.