"Mrs. Stubbs South Face provides a clean and accessible alpine trad climb just below the summit of Keyboard of the Winds on Long’s Peak. This moderate crack and dihedral route demands solid hands and provides a rewarding alpine experience with expansive Rockies views."
Mrs. Stubbs South Face on Long’s Peak offers climbers a straightforward but engaging alpine trad route that combines manageable crack climbing with the raw, open exposure of Colorado’s high country. Positioned just below the summit of the true peak known as Keyboard of the Winds, this line draws you into a rugged environment where nature’s granite shapes challenge both your technical skill and your sense of adventure. The approach to the climb presents a blocky corner terrain that immediately sets the tone—rough but fair—and soon leads to a hand-to-fist crack that demands precise stemming and jamming, rewarding those with steady technique. This route shines as one of the cleaner and more direct options to top out, a rarity on a summit otherwise known for its chaotic east-side terrain.
The route’s single pitch, stretching roughly 120 feet, culminates with a belay positioned on summit boulders, offering a moment to catch your breath and soak in the sweeping alpine views. Though webbing is present, it’s advisable to bring slings to back up existing anchors, ensuring safer anchors in this rugged environment. Rappelling down from Mrs. Stubbs requires a well-placed single 60m rope. Descending south while angling slightly east, you'll navigate some tricky terrain that’s balanced between fourth and low fifth class climbing, often requiring the second climber to simul-climb or ascend a short section before reaching secure ground.
Protection on this route is straightforward—bring a single rack up to Black Diamond #3 cams. If you sense a crux or feel uncertain about the difficulty, a #4 cam is a wise choice for additional security. The route rewards climbers who arrive prepared for classic alpine trad climbing: good hands for jamming, the readiness to supplement webbing on fixed gear, and an awareness of the mountain’s shifting challenges. It's a short but intense experience capturing the spirit of exposed high-altitude climbs without overcomplicating gear or approach.
In practical terms, this climb suits adventurers seeking to test moderate climbing skills in an alpine setting, with a solid payoff in views and the satisfaction of climbing a true summit line. The south face allows afternoon sun to brighten the rock, making spring through early fall ideal for attempts. Keep in mind that the altitude and exposure require solid conditioning and attentiveness to weather, which can shift quickly in the Rockies. Whether you're rounding out a Long’s Peak adventure or looking to sharpen trad technique above timberline, Mrs. Stubbs South Face offers a clean, direct route with just the right amount of character and challenge.
Attention should be paid to the descent rappel, especially the transition to simul-climbing or ascending low fifth terrain. Weather in this alpine zone can change rapidly, so ensure stable conditions and secure anchors before descending.
Bring a single 60m rope for rappelling, as one pitch rappel works well when angling south-east.
Prepare for a short simul-climb or ascent on 4th/low 5th class terrain during the rappel descent.
Supplement webbing at summit anchors with personal slings for safer belays.
Plan to climb mid-morning to afternoon to take advantage of sun hitting the south face.
A single rack to Black Diamond #3 cams is generally sufficient, with #4 cams recommended to protect the crux section and provide added security. Fixed webbing exists at the summit anchors but should be supplemented with slings.
Upload your photos of Mrs. Stubbs South Face and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.