"Mo's Crack in Gold Butte is a classic single-pitch trad climb that balances straightforward jamming with a tricky crux requiring finesse. Perfect for climbers sharpening their crack skills in Colorado’s rugged backcountry."
Mo's Crack offers a straightforward but engaging trad climb tucked within the rugged contours of Colorado's Gold Butte. This single-pitch route stretches roughly 60 feet, greeting climbers with a welcoming layback that loosens into a steady rhythm of jams. The crack begins comfortably, inviting you to settle into the technique. As you progress, the middle section introduces a deliberate crux where the crack tightens, requiring a bit more finesse and flexibility.
Here, two distinct choices shape the climb’s character: you can either inch upward in a squeeze position, facing out from the rock—this route favors those seeking a steadier option—or you can press onward along the slopey slab beside the crack, which demands sharper footwork and balanced body tension. Both approaches funnel into a clean 2-bolt anchor that promises a secure finish.
Situated in the southwest section of the Tenmile Range, Mo’s Crack carves a modest but satisfying niche for climbers who seek a blend of straightforward protection with a touch of tactical movement. The standard rack suffices here, making it accessible for those packing essential cams and nuts without the need for specialty gear. The rock’s texture provides reliable friction, but keep an eye on your foot placements on the slab, where a small miss can throw off your balance.
Accessing Gold Butte is a manageable approach from nearby towns, with trails that thread through alpine meadows and patches of spruce, gradually rising to reveal expansive views of the surrounding peaks. Early morning or late afternoon sessions offer the best temperatures, as midday sun can warm the rock significantly in summer months.
For those venturing on Mo's Crack, timing your climb to avoid midday heat, bringing durable shoes suited for crack and slab work, and packing enough hydration are essential. Though the climb is short, it rewards attention to detail and deliberate movement, making it a jewel for climbers honing their crack technique.
Watch carefully as you transition through the crux; footholds on the slab can be slippery and some edges are less solid, so steady foot placement is critical. The anchor is secure, but avoid dislodging debris on the approach or descent.
Start early or late in the day to avoid strong midday sun warming the slab.
Wear crack-friendly climbing shoes to handle jams and slab footwork comfortably.
Hydrate well—approach and climb can be dry and exposed during summer months.
Check for loose rock on the slab section before committing to moves.
Bring a standard trad rack with cams and nuts; the protection is straightforward without any specialized pieces required.
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