Rising sharply from the rugged terrain of the Bugaboos, Minotaur Direct stakes a commanding claim on Snowpatch Spire’s sheer east face. This demanding trad and alpine route delivers 16 pitches of sustained climbing, inviting adventurers into a realm where ancient rock scars and fresh crack lines come alive beneath your fingertips. The climb cuts a more straightforward path than its namesake Minotaur, threading through a blend of old aid lines and pristine cracks, offering a relentless progression of hand jams, finger locks, and technical stemming.

From the moment you step onto the base, a raw alpine atmosphere envelopes you. The climb begins on hand cracks amid weathered slabs that test footwork and balance, before moving into the rock scar’s steep scoop—a natural feature daring climbers to cross it with finesse. Each pitch demands precise protection placements and steady movement, with the first five shared partially by the striking Welcome to the Machine route—which itself beckons for future ascents.

The rock here is firm but textured with lichen in places, a reminder that regular cleaning could elevate this climb to the caliber of the nearby Sunshine Crack. Expect sharp, sometimes reachy sequences, especially where thin cracks force body tension and deliberate rests. Pitch four stands out with three distinct cruxes, alternating between delicate face work and bold stemming through chimney-like corners. Higher up, steep fists and powerful laybacks challenge your strength, while bouldery moves into piping cracks call for focused technique.

Minotaur Direct isn't just about the technical puzzle — it’s a commitment. Spanning roughly 1800 feet, the route carries you well above tree line, presenting wide views of the Columbia Mountains’ rugged expanse, framed by the jagged Purcell peaks. The alpine environment here is dynamic: wind sweeps across ledges, while distant glaciers glisten against the hard granite backdrop. Timing your ascent is critical; snow conditions at the base can dictate the length and difficulty of your first pitch, and late-season scrubbing may unlock cleaner holds overhead.

The approach to Snowpatch Spire demands careful planning with a trek through the Bugaboos’ wild heart. Climbers should be prepared for a multi-hour approach over uneven terrain, carrying everything necessary for a full day or bivy. Gear requirements lean heavily toward a double rack of cams (ranging from tiny .3 tips to large #3 Camalots), nuts, and RPs — a set finely tuned to protect intricate and sometimes runout sequences. A 60m rope is essential for efficient rappelling, but be alert: not all anchors have hardware for quicklink rappels, so scouting the descent anchors during the climb helps avoid surprises.

This line offers not just physical challenges but also strategic choices: bivying on the spacious grassy ledge after pitch nine allows those with time for a two-day push an opportunity to rest and regain strength. From the summit, the descent leans on a combination of rappels—two 60m ropes will get you safely down to snowfields below. Pack positioning is another detail to manage, with some teams choosing to stash gear temporarily on the glacier for easier retrieval after the climb.

Minotaur Direct’s blend of bouldery, delicate, and sustained crack climbing makes it an exhilarating alpine statement. While it still awaits the full attention of top-tier cleaning and gardening, it’s already a rewarding challenge for experienced climbers looking to test their mettle against the wild Columbia Mountains. In this remote, high-elevation playground, every hand jam and precise foot placement shapes a story of grit, focus, and alpine grace.