Midnight Route carves a direct and imposing line up the right flank of Bugaboo Spire’s southeast face. This alpine climb blends the raw elements of traditional and aid climbing in a remote high mountain setting, offering an experience that demands both respect and focus. The route’s eight pitches extend over 1,500 vertical feet of steep corners and cracks that unfold amid the rugged granite towers of the Bugaboos, located in British Columbia’s Purcell Mountains. The granite here is alive; rough and textured, it invites careful hand and foot placements as you ascend through classic alpine exposure.

The approach to the spire itself sets the tone. Navigating from the Bugaboo base camp, climbers thread through rocky moraine and sparse alpine meadows before the trail steepens and narrows, arriving at the base where the face looms overhead. The air is brisk and clean, with distant winds brushing past as if to warn of the elevation’s demands. The southeast exposure means the rock warms quickly in the morning sun, but the altitude keeps temperatures cool, offering a comfortable balance during the prime climbing months of July to September.

Midnight Route’s character rides on its straightforwardness and seriousness: solid trad climbing punctuated by sections warranting aid techniques, rated A2. Protection must be placed carefully as no fixed anchors are present, emphasizing the need for a comprehensive rack including micro nuts and a range of cams. This stretch allows for reducing aid with clever gear placement, rewarding climbers who master the fine art of clean protection. The granite’s corners and cracks pull the climber upward with a reliable friction that invites confidence, yet the sustained nature of the pitches and alpine altitude require keen stamina and patience.

Planning for this route means preparing for a full mountain day with a well-coordinated approach. Sturdy, well-broken-in boots and multiple layers are essential for managing early morning chill and fluctuating afternoon conditions. Hydration is non-negotiable; water must be carried or sourced wisely from nearby mountain streams. Navigation skills and mountain awareness come into play not just on the route but during descent, which involves a mixture of rappels and careful downclimbing. Understanding the terrain below is critical, as loose rock and narrow ledges present hazards that can’t be underestimated.

Beyond the technical challenge, Midnight Route offers climbers sweeping panoramic views that reward every handjam and foot smear. From the upper pitches, the jagged spires and glaciers of the Columbia Mountains stretch to the horizon, a reminder of wilderness that feels both vast and immediate. The climb’s solitude—few parties tackle this line each season—adds to its allure, presenting a genuine alpine encounter where the mountain holds the upper hand.

For those drawn to alpine trad with an edge of aid, Midnight Route provides a test steeped in texture, exposure, and a demanding setting. It’s a route for climbers ready to engage with the mountain on its terms, where every move requires intention and every belay becomes a moment to tune into the surrounding silence and stone. Prepare diligently, move deliberately, and this classic line will leave a lasting impression etched in granite and memory alike.