Midnight Eagle unleashes a raw and rugged climbing experience that sits at the edge of alpine territory, blending challenging trad pitches with a descent reminiscent of a canyoneering route. Located on Rainbow Spire in the remote West Fork Spires near Pagosa Springs, Colorado, this climb demands both stamina and skill, offering a true subterranean adventure that rewards those who seek more than just easy grades or polished faces. The journey begins beneath the shadow of soaring granite walls, where the air grows thinner and the forest thins to reveal steep ledges. Approaching the climb means navigating a series of ledges and a small 4th class notch, setting the tone for the gritty and unpredictable terrain ahead.

Pitch one, labeled "Mahayana," requires careful route-finding up a path marked by loose rock, demanding a steady hand and vigilant foot placement. The climbing is rated 5.6 R/X, with runout sections that call for boldness and good gear judgment. Moving left across ledges, the line works its way upward to a tree-roosted belay spot, giving you a moment to recalibrate as the route shifts into steeper ground. This pitch can easily be split to reduce rope drag, a practical tip for efficient movement.

"Samsara," the second pitch, ratchets up both exposure and technicality. After a short but intense steeper panel, the climbing pivots left around a corner into the heart of the headwall. Here, 5.8 R challenges come with a dramatic sense of height and precarious freedom. The rock is less forgiving, and your protection placements will be tested. The crux revolves around a committed move off the corner with sharp, airy exposure and a rare chance to feel the bare grip of the mountain’s face beneath your fingers.

The final pitch, "Nirvana Unplugged," stretches for a sustained 70 meters following the main crack system. Rated 5.7 R/X, this pitch is straightforward in terms of moves but increasingly runout as the rock quality dulls near the top. Small cams and a #0.5 Camalot will be valuable tools to build a secure belay here. As you move toward the summit, the route rewards with sweeping views across the San Juan wilderness—an unobstructed panorama earned through grit and endurance rather than ease.

Descending requires attention: from the summit, cross right over a notch and descend a steep, loose gully system rated 4th class. At the cliff band, an impressive 70-meter rappel from a tree anchor returns you safely to the base. From there, a rugged talus descent leads you back toward the river and the trailhead. This route encapsulates a wild, old-style adventure approach, combining raw alpine elements with technical climbing and a descent that keeps your wits sharp.

Midnight Eagle is a test of traditional climbing skill and physical conditioning, where the adventure lies as much in the route-finding and careful protection choices as in the climbing itself. A double rack to #3 Camalots covers most needs, while a single #4 Camalot can be a useful luxury. Expect some runout sections that require confidence and patience, but the overall experience is deeply rewarding—a reminder of what climbing once was and can still be for those willing to embrace the unknown.