"Storm King in Colorado’s San Juans offers classic alpine quartzite climbing with a rare north face route and challenging ridges. Its rugged setting and practical access combine for an adventurous alpine experience."
Storm King stands as a striking peak among Colorado’s rugged San Juans, part of the Grenadiers, a sub-range known for its tough quartzite summits. Rising to 13,752 feet, this mountain offers climbers a unique North Face route — a rarity in the Rockies where a single established path carves a flower-strewn line up an imposing wall first climbed by Bob Bliss in the 1970s. Approaching Storm King means moving through wild alpine landscapes punctuated by impressive ridges and ambitious routes like the Southeast and Northeast Ridges, each demanding a blend of scrambling and technical moves.
The mountain’s proximity to other Grenadier peaks like Silex and the Guardian draws seasoned climbers eager for adventure, yet its relative accessibility at the northern edge of the Needle sub-range makes it an alluring destination for explorers ready to push their limits. The classic climbs here—North Face (5.7), Northeast Ridge (5.8), and Southeast Ridge—present opportunities to engage with the mountain’s character without unnecessary risk, provided you respect the terrain and prepare thoroughly.
Getting to Storm King involves an active trek up Elk Creek following a trail into Vestal drainage, proceeding east past Lake 12,396 feet, and crossing a narrow pass between towering points 13,085 and 13,241. Along the way, you'll find generous camping spots near serene tarns at about 11,800 feet, places where the forest thins and the views open to reveal steep north faces and sprawling alpine ridges. An obscure, cliffy trail contours around the northeast ridge — suitable for the sure-footed — allowing access to the favored southeast ridge startup or the walk-up route.
Those opting for extended approaches can tackle Hunchback Pass and descend via the north fork of Nebo Creek, weaving through valleys with a dramatic backdrop of falls and gulches. This area rewards preparation and patience — you’ll want to be ready for changing conditions in the San Juans, which can be demanding despite the beauty.
While Storm King doesn’t host a wide array of routes, the few climbs it offers are steeped in alpine history and offer a true wilderness climbing experience. The rock is predominantly solid quartzite, demanding attention to footwork and route-finding, especially on the Southeast Ridge where scrambling sections can test your ability to balance exposure with safety. The Northwest Ridge climbed occasionally during alpine training courses offers an alternative angle, hinting at the mountain’s varied terrain.
Climbing seasons here generally center around the summer months, as lingering snow and icy conditions can persist above timberline well into the season. Given the altitude and exposure, early starts are recommended to avoid afternoon storms typical of Colorado’s high country. Gear up for mixed terrain and variable weather, and bring navigation tools, as some trails require careful route-finding.
Storm King’s appeal lies in its undeniable alpine charm paired with practical access and routes that reward effort without excessive technical risk. The climbs’ ratings stay in the moderate range, yet the mountain’s elevation and remoteness give them a definitive edge, making this destination a memorable challenge for climbers seeking both beauty and accomplishment on quartzite summits framed by the grandeur of the San Juans.
The alpine environment means weather conditions can shift abruptly, bringing storms and rapid temperature drops. The approach trails include some cliffy, talus-covered stretches requiring sure footing. There is only one route on the North Face, so deviating from established lines could be dangerous. Proper gear and knowledge of alpine risk management are essential.
Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in the San Juans.
Use cairns on the south side walk-up route for easier navigation.
Camp near the alpine tarns around 11,800 feet for stunning views and access.
Approach via Elk Creek and Vestal drainage for the most straightforward access.
Climbers should be prepared for alpine conditions with a rack suitable for moderate trad climbing and scrambling gear. The North Face has one single established route, so route-finding skills are essential. Cairns along the south side walk-up route help navigation. Camping near the 11,800-foot tarns provides a convenient base. Weather can change quickly, so bring appropriate layers and navigation tools.
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