"Memphis offers 100 feet of sustained, technical sport climbing on textured limestone just a short approach from Grassi Lakes. Perfect for climbers seeking continuous crimps and edges in a sunlit, valley-edge setting."
Memphis is a sharp, demanding line carved into a sun-washed limestone face at Grassi Lakes, offering a pure sport climbing experience just outside the well-visited Bow Valley. This single-pitch route stretches 100 feet, presenting climbing that flows across a mix of sharply defined crimps, positive edges, and satisfying pockets. The rock's texture provides solid purchase, challenging grip and foot precision from start to finish. Initially split into two pitches, climbers today clip a mid-point anchor and push through the continuous sequence without stopping, demanding sustained focus, careful movement, and good shake-out tactics to conserve strength along the way. Situated within the Graceland Area, this climb benefits from clear mountain air and scenic views of the surrounding rugged valley, where the quiet rush of nearby creeks and the scent of pine set the scene.
Approaching Memphis means navigating a brief trek from the main Grassi Lakes trailhead, moving into a moderately rugged, forested approach that rewards with glimpses of rocky cliffs and mountain vistas. The rock sits on a south-facing wall, catching the morning sun that warms the limestone and highlights the holds, making early starts ideal in cooler months. Protection consists of roughly 13 bolts spaced to maintain security on the more difficult crux sections, with well-maintained anchors at the top for safe belays and descent.
Climbers should prepare for the 5.10d rating with intent. While the grade is accurate, the continuous nature of the moves and the precise footwork required can make the pitch feel steeper, especially if your grip starts to falter. The route rewards climbers who focus on technique over brute force—target solid footing and pace your shake-outs to manage pump during the steady rhythm of thin edges.
Safety calls for attention to rock cleanliness and occasional sharp edges around the bolt placements, so taping fingers can help prevent scrapes. While the route sees moderate traffic, bringing your own draws and confirming bolt integrity is always advisable. Descending is straightforward via a double-roped rappel from the fixed anchors, with caution around loose debris and slippery ledges below.
Situated in a protected climbing zone popular for its accessibility and quality routes, Memphis provides an excellent test for intermediate to advanced sport climbers seeking a lengthy, technically rewarding pitch without the commitment of a multi-pitch climb. Plan for hydration and sun protection, and aim for early mornings or late afternoons to avoid heat on the south-facing rock. This route stands as a tactile conversation between climber and limestone, a challenge inviting skillful moves that blend muscle memory and steady nerves.
While bolts are well maintained, some edges near placements are sharp and the lower section can accumulate loose rock. Finger taping and cautious clipping reduce cut risk. Rappel carefully, as loose debris near anchors requires attention to avoid slips or dropping gear.
Start early to enjoy cooler rock temperatures on the south-facing wall.
Bring tape to protect fingers from sharp edges near some bolts.
Use precise foot placements to manage pump on continuous crimps.
Double-rope rappel down from fixed anchors to avoid rockfall hazards.
Memphis is protected by approximately 13 bolts and anchors, spaced to offer solid security throughout the climb. Climbers should bring at least 12 quickdraws to comfortably clip every bolt and maintain clipping safety when extending draws for better rope management.
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