"A tight, one-pitch trad climb on the stony cliffs of Copper Mountain, March Madness challenges with a blend of underclings, cracks, and a small roof leading to a short arete. Ideal for trad climbers seeking focused, steady climbing in Northern British Columbia’s rugged setting."
March Madness offers a tightly focused, single-pitch adventure on the rugged cliffs of Copper Mountain, Northern British Columbia. Starting from the same launch point as the nearby Smiling Buddha route, this climb veers right, demanding precise footwork as you negotiate a solid undercling before following a crack into a narrow dihedral that tests both technique and nerve. The rock here pushes you to stay sharp—every move counts against a backdrop of raw, unpolished stone that carries the patina of countless ascents. An early small roof challenges your ability to manage body tension, and finishing along a short but exposed arete delivers a satisfying sequence before reaching the anchors.
Protection runs deep here with traditional placements up to 3.5 inches, complemented by seven fixed bolts for added security. This blend offers both steadiness and the chance to rely on clean gear placements amid varied cracks and edges, making it ideal for climbers who appreciate a balanced trad experience. The route stretches approximately 35 meters; however, due to the climb’s unique configuration, an intermediate rappel station detours slightly right at the point where this route splits from its neighbor—and using a 60-meter rope makes this station essential for a smooth descent.
The setting at Copper Mountain is rugged, quiet, and remote. Approaching through forest trails before reaching the base, climbers find themselves surrounded by towering northern pines and the cool scent of alpine air. The rock faces catch the morning light on east-facing walls, making early starts optimal to avoid midday heat and maximize grip. Wind can be a factor, so layering for variable conditions is advisable. Bring boots with solid traction for the approach, as the trail mixes rocky pathways with loose gravel. Hydration is critical—although the region is often cool, exertion levels spike on technical faces like March Madness.
For those drawn to uncluttered traditional routes with a bit of edge, this climb delivers well-measured challenges without unnecessary complexity. The 5.9 rating feels grounded rather than inflated, with a clear crux around the roof section that demands power and balance but rewards with confident movement once mastered. Compared to other climbs nearby, it strikes a sweet spot: approachable for seasoned trad climbers ready to sharpen skills, yet accessible enough to entice those refreshing their crack climbing.
Descent requires attention, relying on that intermediate rappel station for a clean retreat and avoiding unnecessary awkward downclimbing. Route protection is straightforward, though climbers should mind gear placements early on where cracks can be shallow or flared. Weather and seasonal timing are crucial here; spring through early fall offers the best windows, avoiding icy patches or lingering wet conditions that sap friction.
March Madness commands respect through its focused, direct nature—each move deliberate amid the cold northern air and raw stone. It’s more than just a climb; it’s a test of technique set within British Columbia’s quiet grandeur, calling those who seek a trad challenge with honest rock and minimal fuss.
Watch for flaring cracks that can complicate gear placement, especially near the roof; the intermediate rappel station is critical when using longer ropes to avoid hazardous down climbs. Rock can be loose near the approach trail—wear suitable footwear and proceed with care.
Start early to catch morning light and cooler rock conditions.
Use a 60-meter rope to safely rappel the intermediate station and avoid downclimbing.
Place gear carefully around the roof section where cracks can flare.
Approach trail can be loose and rocky; wear boots with firm grip.
Requires traditional gear placements up to 3.5 inches and seven fixed bolts. An intermediate rappel station to the right is necessary when using a 60-meter rope for descent.
Upload your photos of March Madness and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.