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Man On Fire at El Gigante: A Bold Trad and Aid Climb in Northern Mexico

Basaseachi, Mexico
multi-pitch
trad climbing
aid climbing
big wall
loose rock
bivy ledges
remote
long approach
Length: 2500 ft
Type: Trad | Aid
Stars
Pitches
30
Location
Man On Fire
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Man On Fire delivers 2,500 feet of demanding trad and aid climbing on El Gigante’s towering volcanic walls. This multi-day adventure blends bold lead climbing with strategic aid sections, rewarding those who embrace its sustained challenges and remote wilderness setting."

Man On Fire at El Gigante: A Bold Trad and Aid Climb in Northern Mexico

Carved into the sheer face of El Gigante, the 'Man On Fire' route challenges climbers with 30 pitches of sustained traditional and aid climbing—the kind of route that demands focus, skill, and steady nerves. Located high in the dramatic ranges of Northern Mexico’s Chihuahua region, this climb stretches over 2,500 feet of mostly solid volcanic rock, punctuated by occasional loose sections that call for sharp route-finding and care.

From the approach, the cliff commands attention, its vertical walls rising sharply against the desert sky. The first pitches launch you into movement that shifts between delicate free climbing and calculated aid sections. It’s an evolving test of technique, with few fixed hooks or shortcuts. Except for two aid-placed bolts on pitch six, nearly all protection was drilled on lead, reflecting the route’s bold spirit where leadership and precision reign.

Pitch by pitch, the line winds through cracks, dihedrals, and thin seams. Notably, pitch two threads between two palms, a subtle invitation from the rock’s own flora that adds character to the climb. The fourth pitch asks for careful gardening to tame loose rock and find secure holds before heading out right past bolts. This stretch requires controlled movement and a watchful eye.

Midway, the climb offers chances to rest and regroup. Pitch eight hides a bolted bivy ledge—a critical sanctuary after the demanding early climbs. Pitch nine pushes past overhanging cracks atop a pillar, another chance to pause before the route zigzags with dynamic climbing on pitch 12 that keeps you on your toes.

Approaching the higher pitches, the route shifts into more exposed territory. Pitch 14 moves left into a shallow gully before angling toward a gardened ledge with another excellent bivy site, accented by oak trees that mark the transition from sheer rock faces to more varied terrain. Pitch 16 showcases a perfect crack leading into a cool cave, a memorable moment where the physical challenge meets a touch of refuge.

The final pitches—19 through 21—are a test of thin cracks and bold arête climbing that surge toward the summit. The line here is clean and sharp, offering both striking views and a climactic finish to a route that truly earns its name.

Descent options are classically technical: a series of rappels descending east from the summit to the saddle, then a ridge walk back to the trailhead. Alternatively, multiple tree rappels drop you back through the route’s midsection before a challenging hike down. This demands planning, especially if you cache gear or haul bags at pitch 19.

Gear-wise, a solid traditional rack is essential—double cams from half to three inches, selected wires, small tri-cams, slings, and draws. Double ropes are crucial given the length and rappel requirements. While some pitches expose you to modest danger (notably pitch 16’s 5.9 runout), careful placement and route knowledge reduce risk.

Man On Fire sits in a remote but technically accessible wilderness zone in northern Mexico, far from the typical climbing hubs. The area’s volcanic rock offers excellent friction and interesting features, though loose rock patches around pitches 2, 4, 11, and 12 mean extra vigilance. Climbers should expect clear dry conditions but come prepared for temperature swings and desert sun exposure.

This climb is best tackled in late fall through spring to avoid the brutal Mexican summer heat. Morning starts are recommended to use cooler conditions for the demanding sustained pitches. Shade can be scarce, especially on exposed faces, and wind can influence weather swiftly.

All told, Man On Fire isn’t just a climb—it’s an expedition into vertical wilderness, blending careful tradition with the excitement of aid climbing in a landscape that challenges and rewards. For those ready to manage route-finding, loose rock, and long days aloft, this route offers a memorable encounter with one of Mexico’s most commanding big walls.

Climber Safety

Loose rock on pitches 2, 4, 11, and 12 requires attentive cleaning before climbing. Use caution in the gardened sections where footing can be inconsistent, and prepare for extended exposure often compounded by direct sun. Secure rope management during long rappels is critical to avoid setbacks on the descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad | Aid
Pitches30
Length2500 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid intense midday heat and take advantage of cooler morning conditions.

Inspect and clean loose rock sections carefully on pitches 2, 4, 11, and 12 to reduce hazard.

Cache haul bags or a second rope at pitch 19 to ease the descent and lighten your load.

Bring double ropes for rappels and rappel anchors use metal hardware to ensure reliable descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d A0 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d A0 grading reflects a stiff climb with technical free sections interspersed with aid moves. Some pitches, such as pitch 16, carry serious runouts (5.9R), demanding confident protection placement and commitment. Compared to other long Northern Mexico walls, the difficulties feel well-proportioned, with a challenging crux toward the upper pitches on thin cracks and arêtes.

Gear Requirements

A comprehensive rack including standard wires, double cams from 0.5 to 3 inches, the three smallest tri-cams, slings, ten draws, and double ropes is recommended. Larger pieces were not necessary, though a few chockstones can supplement protection on tricky pitches. Expect to place most gear on lead with few fixed bolts, excepting two bolts drilled on aid on pitch six.

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Tags

multi-pitch
trad climbing
aid climbing
big wall
loose rock
bivy ledges
remote
long approach