Madness on Yak Peak offers a gripping alpine trad climb that demands nerve and careful footwork. This route stands apart as a strenuous, runout adventure carved into the steep, raw cliffs of the Fraser Valley. From the outset, you’ll solo stretch after stretch of low-angle slabs, beginning just right of the Reality Check route. The slabs, rated around 5.7, extend for approximately 300 meters and serve as a quiet but steady introduction, requiring focused balance as you follow a ramp slicing through a bold band of overhangs. The air is crisp here, and the forested base below fades as the rock rises, sharp and unwelcoming.

Once you reach the ledge beneath Porcelain Chicken, the real test begins: a six-pitch dihedral climb that challenges both endurance and judgement. The dihedral prowls upward with sustained trad climbing in varied terrain, demanding precise gear placements and a steady head. Here, the mountain’s character becomes clear — it doesn’t suffer fools or slackers. The granite takes on a rougher texture, and with each pitch, the exposure sharpens, outlining breathtaking views over the Fraser Valley and distant mountain ridges.

Yet the finale of Madness veers into wild territory. Instead of finishing with Porcelain Chicken, you push beyond, scaling through crumbly, granular sections marked by loose stones and uncertain holds. This stretch tests your patience and hazard assessment skills, capped by a sandbagged 5.9 crux where stability and confident movement are essential. Beyond this, the climbing eases into more straightforward slab scrambling, allowing a final push to the summit crest, where the broad panorama rewards every meticulous move.

Gear up with a full rack heavy on nuts and small to RP-sized cams, and pack plenty of long slings to ease rope drag on the wandering path. This route isn’t for the faint-hearted; the risk of loose rock and the runout nature means preparation and respect for the mountain’s unpredictable temperament are critical.

The approach weaves through forested trails with occasional patches of loose scree and takes approximately two hours from the trailhead. The terrain invites early starts to make use of cooler morning air and safer rock conditions before heat dries the slabs and increases the chance of loose debris. Descending requires a careful mix of downclimbing and rappelling, with particular attention to rope management and spotting unstable ground beneath your feet.

Madness promises an immersive alpine experience combining technical trad climbing with raw mountain exposure. It rewards those ready for a bold day above the trees, balancing the thrill of the climb with the practical challenges posed by nature's less forgiving edges.