"Machine Gun Jumblies offers a sustained, well-protected line on Owens River Gorge’s vertical walls, combining a committing lie-back crux with more moderate climbing above. Paired with Double Flipper, it makes for a challenging single pitch that blends endurance with technical finesse."
Machine Gun Jumblies unfolds as an enticing test of endurance and technique on the sheer face above Owens River Gorge’s well-loved Double Flipper route. This single-pitch sport climb stretches upward for 115 feet, threading a sequence of fourteen bolts that protect a line carving past a challenging wide lie-back move—the heart of the route—where commitment meets calculated control. That move, positioned smartly between the first and second bolts, invites climbers to push close to their limits before the grade eases into a less demanding 5.9/5.8 slab of finely sculpted rock.
Located in the Upper Gorge sector near Bishop, California, this face climb rewards effort with sweeping views of the Sierra Eastside’s rugged frame and the Owens River carving through the canyon floor below. The rock offers solid friction, and while the wall leans moderately, the route demands focused footwork and strategic use of the lie-back corner that dominates the crux.
Starting seamlessly from the anchors of nearby Double Flipper (5.9), combining both climbs in a single pitch is the preferred line for many, creating a sustained, fluid experience that feels greater than the sum of its parts. The protection is reassuring: fourteen bolts placed thoughtfully to safeguard the steeper sections, but climbers should note the commitment at the wide lie-back that tests both strength and nerve.
Getting here requires a hike into the Owens River Gorge, a breathtaking outdoor amphitheater known for its clean stone and concentrated climbing zones. The approach trail is well-marked and brisk, offering the chance to survey neighboring routes and tap into the quiet pulse of the canyon environment—pine-scented air mingling with the distant murmur of the river daring you onward.
For descent, anchors are shared with Double Flipper, allowing a careful lower on a 70-meter rope if combined, or an 80-meter rope if lowering directly from the more extended anchors. The drop is straightforward, but precision is essential given the length and exposure.
Machine Gun Jumblies beckons climbers who crave a sport route with a solid technical crux, balanced by approachable climbing in its upper section. It’s an excellent option for those sharpening their lead confidence while soaking in one of California’s storied climbing landscapes.
Preparation tips include ensuring your rope length matches your descent plan, focusing on foot placement for efficiency on the less steep sections, and timing your climb to avoid the midday sun since the wall catches heat on warm days. With these in place, Machine Gun Jumblies promises both challenge and satisfaction in equal measure.
The anchor lowers require attention: a 70-meter rope works if combining with Double Flipper, but direct lowers demand a full 80-meter rope. The wide lie-back move calls for careful execution; mistimed attempts can lead to significant swing potential. Watch your footing on the upper slabs, as loose debris can gather in spots.
Combine the climb with Double Flipper to maximize rope length efficiency and flow.
Aim for morning or late afternoon to avoid the wall's intense midday heat.
Check your rope length carefully—an 80m is essential for direct rappelling.
Focus on precise footwork on the upper slab to conserve energy after the crux.
The route is secured by 14 bolts, including those shared with Double Flipper. A 70m rope suffices for lowering from the combined anchors, but an 80m rope is required for a direct rappel from the extended anchors.
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