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Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral at Colorado National Monument

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
trad climbing
dihedral
single pitch
crimp
layback
Colorado National Monument
desert climbing
moderate trad
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Luhr's Route offers a 120-foot trad climb threading a left-facing dihedral in Monument Canyon. With a mix of face climbing, crimps, and lieback moves, it presents moderate technical challenges set against the striking desert walls of Colorado National Monument."

Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral at Colorado National Monument

Luhr's Route, also known locally as the Right Dihedral, carves a distinct line through the heart of Monument Canyon within Colorado National Monument. This single-pitch trad climb stretches 120 feet up a left-facing dihedral, offering a blend of straightforward movement and subtle challenges that keep climbers alert. While the rock quality varies with some sections feeling solid and others hinting at loose blocks—especially early on—this route rewards persistence with technical laybacking and a hands-on experience in crack climbing.

Starting on a sport route, you’ll face climb past three bolts, passing the first unprotected but clipping the last two with 24-inch runners to create a safer lead. These initial moves present a technical crux of sorts, demanding precise crimps and careful body positioning. Once you transition into the dihedral, the climbing shifts into a more awkward, yet engaging rhythm. The crack demands good footwork and lieback technique, rewarding those who steady themselves with patience. About halfway up, a broad ledge appears, offering a rare chance to rest, better appreciate the rugged canyon walls, and catch your breath before the final push.

Protection involves a standard rack up to a #4 Friend, complemented by shoulder slings to secure the first two bolts. The last bolt before entering the crack requires a long runner, allowing safer movement in the dihedral’s constricted spaces. Anchors are solid, with a bomber chain to clip into at the top, where a single 50-meter rope lowers you back to the base.

The setting is remote enough to feel isolated from busy climbing hubs, yet accessible from Grand Junction, Colorado. Monument Canyon’s desert terrain frames the climb with warm sandstone hues, with morning and afternoon light shifting the textures and shadows dramatically. The wall faces mostly west, making afternoon climbs cooler, as the rock basks in dappled shade.

This route is perfectly suited for trad climbers seeking a moderate but satisfying test of technique. It leans into practical skills—clean placements, proper runner length, and mindful movement amidst the occasional unstable block. Novice climbers will find it approachable with a guide but should remain vigilant for natural hazards. Experienced climbers will appreciate the straightforward rating and the solid anchor setup, which offers a smooth rappel or lowers.

Overall, Luhr’s Route is a reliable introduction to the trad climbs that Colorado National Monument offers, with a real sense of adventure and subtle character in its rock features and line. Whether winding through the sport bolts or shifting into the crack, this climb invites you to engage fully with the physicality of traditional climbing, balanced by the raw desert backdrop and the calm vigilance demanded by the terrain.

Climber Safety

Loose blocks near the dihedral entrance pose a risk; climbers should test all holds carefully. The approach trail is exposed, so sun protection and ample hydration are necessary. Always double-check gear placements before committing to moves on the less-than-perfect sandstone.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Approach from Monument Canyon Trailhead; the walk-in is short but exposed to sun.

Clip the first two bolts with shoulder slings before moving into the crack system.

Watch for a loose block near the start of the dihedral; test holds carefully.

Plan your climb in cooler morning or late afternoon hours to avoid midday heat.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating fits the climb well but leans slightly toward stiff for 5.8 standards due to the technical crux at the bolts and the awkward moves entering the dihedral. The crimps require finger strength and precise body positioning, which elevates the challenge beyond a typical 5.8 face climb. For climbers familiar with local routes, it feels comparable in difficulty to nearby trad climbs like Circle Square, but the final crack section rewards clean gear and steady technique.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard trad rack up to a #4 Friend, shoulder slings for the first two bolts, and quickdraws. A 50-meter rope is essential for lowering off the fixed chain anchor. Use a long runner on the last bolt before entering the crack to reduce rope drag.

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Tags

trad climbing
dihedral
single pitch
crimp
layback
Colorado National Monument
desert climbing
moderate trad