"The Lower Roof Route at Creekside Wall challenges climbers with a prominent roof crack and left-facing dihedral. Its 50-foot line offers a blend of solid protection, a few bold moves, and an engaging 5.9 grade perfect for those honing trad techniques in North Cheyenne Canyon."
Just uphill from the main Creekside Wall lies the unmistakable challenge of the Lower Roof Route—centered around the largest roof feature you’ll find on this cliff. From the moment you lift your gaze upward while hiking toward Creekside Wall, the route demands attention with a left-facing dihedral that sweeps into a roof crack, pulling you through a sequence of moves that reward both technique and composure. The prominent flake beneath the roof offers a solid handhold, nearly begging to be trusted, while tighter protection lives deeper inside the roof’s pocket, particularly with a number 2 or 3 Camalot holding firm. Planning your move means making a bold reach right along the lip for a satisfying side-pull, then cranking over until you gain standing room on the face. From here, the climb unfolds upward with fewer protections, requiring steady footwork and confidence. Alternatively, climbers can veer right into looser terrain and pass an aging fixed pin that speaks to the route's history. Despite its imposing look from the base, this 50-foot, single-pitch climb settles into a manageable 5.9, blending an adventurous feel with approachable difficulty—a strong choice for trad climbers stepping up in the area. The approach is straightforward with the familiar hum of the forest around, connecting you to North Cheyenne Canyon’s rich climbing atmosphere. Prepare a slim rack, as the protections are spaced cleverly and require finesse—an invitation to refine your gear-placement skills. This route delivers a mix of powerful moves, gear savvy, and a touch of classic Colorado grit.
Beware of loose rocks when moving right after topping the roof—this section includes some unstable holds and an aging fixed pin that should not be trusted blindly. Use caution on the approach as well, since the terrain can be uneven and slippery when wet.
Start your approach early to avoid afternoon sun on the face.
Bring extra slings to lengthen your protection and reduce rope drag under the roof.
Test old fixed pins carefully and avoid relying solely on them.
Wear good traction shoes for the approach trail, which can be loose and rocky.
A slender rack is ideal here, including a blue (#1) TCU, #2 and #3 Camalots for deeper roof pockets, plus a red (#4) TCU for secure placements near the roof lip. Bring ample slings to extend placements beneath the roof and prepare gear for anchoring at the top, such as a tree or pipe anchor.
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