Long John Wall offers a compelling journey along Eldorado Canyon's West Ridge, wrapping climbers in its blend of technical crack work and varied terrain that demands steady hands and clear-headed moves. Starting just right of a hefty right-facing dihedral and left of a noticeable overhang, this route immediately calls for attention—not just for the climbing but for nearby poison ivy lurking at the base. From here, the first pitch slides into an engaging dance between slab and crack, requiring delicate footwork and creative placements as you groove left through a tight slot before moving right to a solid belay ledge. Variations on this pitch allow for slightly different approaches that spice up the experience, including Break on Through’s layback corner or Ignominity’s right-facing crack, both routes converging at the same belay and offering options for climbers to match their comfort or push a little harder.

Ascending the second pitch, you’ll link into one of the route’s highlights—a striking finger crack leading to a small roof. The rock here demands focused finesse, with hand jams and finger locks earning their keep as you advance to a spacious ledge before traversing left to a wide slot perched overhead. The third pitch deepens the challenge, guiding you through the slot and then into a breathtaking dihedral. The finger and hand crack crux in this corner tests your stemming and technique, rewarding careful movement with reliable protection and a sturdy belay atop a ledge guarded by an old tree.

The final pitch offers a choice: a straightforward, comfortable dihedral climb to the summit or a slightly stiffer variation that traverses right before tackling an old pin-protected corner and a wide crack to the top. If time allows, both options can be combined for added mileage and climbing variety, since descent jumps back to the starting ledge of this pitch.

Descending Long John Wall requires caution and familiarity with the terrain. Start by downclimbing the gully north of the summit to return to the belay ledge below pitch three. From there, two rappels on rings (not trees; original tree anchors have been removed) with a 60m rope lower you onto a broken ledge where a short uphill scramble leads to the trail. The second rappel angles left—rappelling climbers should watch the rope ends closely. A 50m rope is workable but demands careful downclimbing to compensate.

Protection calls for a full set of wired nuts and a rack stocked with Friends from 0.5 to 4 (doubling up on No. 1 cams is a wise choice), a handful of medium hexes, a dozen 12" runners, and several 24" slings to extend placements on tricky overlaps and protect the occasional reach. The rock quality is solid Eldo granite, offering excellent friction and secure placements, though some old pins remain in the upper variations. This route is an excellent introduction to Eldorado’s trad climbing, balancing technical moves with moderate exposure and a variety of crack sizes.

Approach trails wind through pine and scrub oak, with a 15–20 minute walk from the main parking areas of Eldorado Canyon State Park. The ascent is best attempted in spring or fall when temperatures are moderate; summer sun hits the wall in the afternoon, while spring mornings bring cooler conditions. Bring sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber and enough hydration for the day—the route’s length and crack climbing demand steady energy and focus.

Long John Wall is more than a climb; it’s an opportunity to engage closely with Eldorado’s rock, terrain, and natural rhythms. Its flexible pitch options accommodate a range of abilities, making it a must-try for trad climbers looking to test skills on one of Colorado’s classic walls.