Rising sharply from the West Face of the Lamb Dome, Little Sheba stakes its claim as Tuolumne Meadows’ standout finger crack at the 5.10a grade. This single-pitch wonder stretches 110 feet of steep, precise climbing, demanding deft fingerwork and confident placements. Every move pulls you deeper into a granite slab streaked with tight, clean seams that invite the attentive hand. The route’s protection is thoughtfully placed, with bomber cams ranging from tiny finger sizes up through larger pieces, allowing a steady progression despite the incline. As you ascend, the rock’s cool texture greets your touch like a measured challenge, the crack testing not only your technique but your ability to read the subtle shifts in width and angle.

While Little Sheba commands attention among locals and visitors, its popularity can mean a waiting game during peak days. The approach to the base is a manageable walk from the main Tuolumne Meadows trail network, with a scramble around slick 3rd class slabs to find the top for those wishing to set a top rope anchor. The setting itself is high alpine, where brisk winds can stir the air and shifting clouds sketch dynamic patterns across the granite walls.

Preparation is key here. A double set of cams from 0.6" to 2" is essential, plus one 3-inch piece for the upper placements and some nuts to fill in gaps, providing the security the route deserves. Bring a 70m rope to comfortably rappel back down or safely set top rope anchors. The climb’s reliability as a classic finger crack makes it an ideal testpiece for those honing their trad finesse in Yosemite’s high country.

Beyond the technical challenge, the broader Lamb Dome offers climbers panoramic views of Tuolumne Meadows’ open spaces and the distant profile of the Sierra Nevada peaks. The granite’s sun-warmed expanse is balanced by shaded spots beneath ledges, providing climbers occasional relief during sunny days. The best visits fall in late spring through early fall—snowmelt channels retreat from the slabs, and stable weather favors long days of climbing.

Navigating Little Sheba’s crux is a focused exertion; the moves require precise hand jams and secure foot placements on polished slab features. The rock’s quality here is outstanding, but be mindful of the occasional slick patch after rain or early morning moisture. A solid pair of climbing shoes that meld sensitivity with support will pay dividends.

All told, Little Sheba is a concentrated commitment to finger crack excellence: vivid in challenge, rich in exposure, and lined with the practical protections climbers depend on. Whether you’re pitching this as a must-do within Yosemite’s high country or adding it to your growing crack repertoire, this short but intense climb offers an experience that rewards preparation, precision, and a readiness to embrace the alpine granite’s exacting call.