"Little Piece offers a single-pitch trad challenge in Clear Creek Canyon with technical moves low on the wall leading to easier climbing above. Perfect for climbers honing their trad skills, this route combines solid rock with a quiet setting just outside Golden, Colorado."
Little Piece is a straightforward single-pitch trad route tucked into the rugged outcrops of Clear Creek Canyon near Golden, Colorado. This climb offers a modest but engaging challenge, ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills without facing overwhelming difficulty. The route's main test comes low on the wall, where a series of technical moves require careful footwork and deliberate hand placements. After navigating this initial crux, the climb opens into a gentler groove—an inviting gully that guides you smoothly to the top. The rock feels solid and offers a mix of small ledges to rest on and features that let you build confidence as you ascend.
Situated at roughly 115 feet in height, Little Piece requires a rack equipped up to a #3 Camalot, and climbers should be prepared to build a gear anchor at the summit. The line skirts some fixed bolts lower down that belong to the nearby route A Little Piece of South Dakota, but those should be avoided on this climb to maintain a traditional experience. You'll appreciate the quiet, natural setting of Clear Creek Canyon, where the walls surround you with a rugged character distinctly Colorado, edged by pine-studded slopes and sporadic clearings that catch the afternoon sun.
Access to the climb is relatively easy, with a short approach from the main trailhead that winds through mixed forest and loose rock, taking about 10 minutes to reach the base. Early mornings or late afternoons are best for climbs here, as the eastern-facing wall basks in gentle sun during cooler hours but can become hot and slick by midday. Safety is straightforward but mindful: the crux zone demands precise movement, and the presence of the adjacent bolted route means attention is necessary to avoid accidental clipping or interference.
For climbers venturing to Clear Creek, Little Piece is a satisfying warm-up or skill-builder that balances steady technical moves with accessible terrain. While it doesn't claim the spotlight among the area’s more prominent climbs, it rewards those who appreciate a clear, clean line that tests your gear placement and route-finding. Bring your standard trad rack, focus on solid footwork through the early moves, and savor the quietude of this lesser-traveled canyon route.
The route's crux zone is low and somewhat exposed, so take care placing gear in this section and ensure secure anchors at the top. The proximity of bolted routes nearby means careful route identification is crucial to avoid unintended clipping. Loose rock on the approach can also demand cautious footing.
Start early to avoid midday heat on the eastern-facing wall.
Avoid clipping bolts near the bottom that belong to the adjacent route.
Focus on precise footwork in the tricky lower moves where rests are limited.
Bring a range of cams to handle both small cracks and wider placements.
Bring a standard trad rack up to a #3 Camalot to protect the varied sections. Build a solid gear anchor at the top for a safe belay and rappel if needed.
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