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HomeClimbingLeft Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral

Left Dihedral: Classic Sandstone Trad Climb in Colorado National Monument

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
finger crack
sandstone
desert
multi-pitch
hand crack
exposed
traditional gear
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Left Dihedral in Colorado National Monument offers a solid introduction to sandstone trad climbing with finger cracks that tease confident jams and a technical second pitch that tests even seasoned climbers. This two-pitch route blends desert scenery with manageable challenges, perfect for honing crack skills."

Left Dihedral: Classic Sandstone Trad Climb in Colorado National Monument

Left Dihedral stands as a striking introduction to the sandstone climbing that defines Colorado National Monument's quieter Side Areas. This two-pitch trad route offers climbers a hands-on encounter with clean finger and hand cracks set within a right-facing dihedral ramp. From the first jamming moves upward, the sandstone’s texture demands both careful placement and confident movement, making it a valuable warmup for those new to the area’s unique rock.

Pitch one eases you into the climb with an engaging 5.8+ rating, presenting frictionful cracks that encourage a smooth flow of jams and rests as you ascend toward a fixed chain anchor. The finger cracks feel alive under your hands, offering steady purchase while the ramp angle invites steady balance and rhythm. Though modest in difficulty, the pitch remains technical enough to sharpen skills crucial to sandstones’ subtle challenges.

The second pitch elevates the experience, pushing into a notably harder technical section, historically graded around 11+/12-. Here, the rock narrows, and placements for protection get thinner, requiring sharp focus and micro gear finesse. This section demands precision and nerves of steel, testing your ability to read the stone and confidently trust smaller gear such as offset micro stoppers alongside a streamlined rack of cams.

The route sits within the arid, sunlit climbs of Colorado National Monument, a less crowded area where climbers can appreciate sweeping canyon views and exposed walls without the bustle of busier spots. The approach is straightforward, accessible via well-maintained trails that wind through rugged desert flora before reaching the heart of the Side Areas. Climbers benefit from early morning starts to beat the heat, especially in warmer months when the sun bakes the rock.

Given its sandstone nature, the climb calls for careful consideration of weather: dryness keeps the rock secure, and any rain can weaken holds and complicate protection placement. For protection, a standard trad rack enhanced with an extra #1 and #1.5 Camalot, plus a #4 cam for larger placements, thoughtfully prepares you for the route’s demands. A 50m rope is needed to reach the rappel-ready fixed anchors at the top.

Left Dihedral is ideal for those aiming to deepen their sandstone trad climbing skills while soaking in the majesty of Colorado’s desert landscapes. It blends an approachable first pitch with a technical second pitch that rewards climbers with a palpable sense of accomplishment and a connection with the rock’s raw essence. Whether you’re shaking off rust or pushing your limits, this route stands as a gateway to the Monument’s unique climbing culture.

Before you head out, pack plenty of water, sturdy footwear with sticky rubber, and layered clothing to adjust for temperature swings. Early spring through late fall works best, avoiding wet conditions that can soften sandstone grips. The descent is a straightforward rappel from the fixed anchors, requiring no additional negotiation beyond focused attention on your rope work and anchor checks.

Overall, Left Dihedral may not boast the flashiest name, but its steady rhythm and reliable gear placements offer a rewarding day in one of Colorado’s most scenic national monuments. This climb teaches respect for the stone’s qualities while uncovering the sheer satisfaction that comes from cracking into solid sandstone with precise, confident jams. Ready your rack and approach the dihedral with intent—adventure and authentic engagement await.

Climber Safety

Given the brittle nature of sandstone, avoid climbing when the rock is wet or immediately after rain. Protection on pitch two requires careful placement of small cams and micro stoppers; ensure gear placements are secure before committing. The fixed anchors are reliable but always confirm their condition and test rappel setups thoroughly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat, as the sandstone absorbs sun and warms quickly.

Double-check fixed anchors before rappelling, and ensure your rope reaches at least 50 meters.

Bring a set of micro protection for thin cracks on the second pitch.

Avoid climbing after rain; sandstone loses strength when wet and protection becomes unreliable.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Left Dihedral's 5.9 rating feels approachable on the first pitch, which stays around 5.8+ with clean, comfortable jams. The second pitch ramps up to harder technical moves near 11+/12-, introducing a demanding crux with smaller holds and thinner protection, making it stiffer than the initial pitch. Climbers familiar with local Colorado sandstone will recognize this as a solid progression route, bridging accessible crack climbing with serious micro gear work.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard trad rack with emphasis on an extra #1 and #1.5 Camalot for solid jams, plus a #4 Friend for wider placements. A 50m rope is sufficient to rappel from the fixed anchors at the top. For the second pitch’s thin sections, micro stoppers like Metolius offsets and cams sized 0.1–2 are essential, along with a few extra hand-sized cams.

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Tags

finger crack
sandstone
desert
multi-pitch
hand crack
exposed
traditional gear