"Left Arete at Creekside Wall delivers a sharp, 40-foot trad climb with secure small gear placements and an inviting, airy opening move. Perfect for climbers seeking a quick yet engaging trad challenge near Colorado Springs."
The Left Arete presents a concise yet engaging trad climb tucked along Creekside Wall in North Cheyenne Canyon, Colorado Springs. This route delivers a brisk ascent of approximately 40 feet, making it ideal for climbers seeking a quick outdoor challenge with a touch of airy exposure. Starting off with a distinctive, slightly bold move, this climb demands focused footwork and careful gear placement. That initial move leans into an inviting crack system on the right side of the arete, where a 0.75 cam proves handy for added security. From here, the climb follows the sharp line of the arête itself, showcasing clean rock and modest but meaningful verticality.
Protection relies mainly on small cams ranging from tiny 0.1 sizes up to 0.75, paired with nuts for backup. You’ll want to populate a few solid placements before the final mantle, which requires committing to balance and technique atop smoother rock. This route is bolstered by the convenience of a single pitch, making it a perfect introduction to trad climbing or a solid warm-up before tackling lengthier objectives in the area.
The setting, just north of downtown Colorado Springs, offers a quick escape from urban life into rugged foothills where the canyon cradles quiet pockets of climbing opportunity. Creekside Wall’s rock, known for its generally reliable friction, invites a measured approach rather than a brute force strategy. While this climb lacks extensive length, its character presents a classic Colorado-style trad problem: small gear, careful moves, and exposure enough to keep your senses sharp without overwhelming.
Given the modest elevation gain and proximity to the city, this climb can be enjoyed year-round, though early spring and fall bring the most comfortable weather. Footwear with sticky soles and solid ankle support will ease the approach over uneven terrain and ensure confidence on the slabby top-out. Because the route is short and accessible, it’s excellent for climbing parties who want to blend efficient movement with real climbing challenges without the commitment of a multi-pitch endeavor.
In summary, Left Arete offers a rewarding, compact trad climb with technical placement and engaging moves. It’s a straightforward adventure—ideal for those with a grasp on small cam placements and an appetite for a brief but satisfying climb in a beautiful canyon setting.
While the climb is short, the final mantle involves juggling on comparatively smooth rock—make sure your protection is secure beforehand. The small gear can be tricky to place if you rush, so take your time to avoid runouts. Watch for loose rock near the base and be prepared for a moderate approach over uneven terrain.
Start with a 0.75 cam in the right-angling crack to secure the opening move.
Place at least two pieces near the top before committing to the mantle.
Wear shoes with good edge control and grip to handle the slabby top section.
Plan your climb during cooler parts of the day in summer to avoid slippage from heat.
Bring a set of small cams ranging from 0.1 to 0.75 and a selection of small nuts for solid protection, especially for the initial airy move and the top mantle.
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