HomeClimbingLarge Crack (Mabe's version)

Large Crack (Mabe's version): A Classic Moderate Challenge at Rebel Wall

Golden, Colorado United States
chimney
crack climbing
moderate
single pitch
trad gear
Clear Creek Canyon
Golden Colorado
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Large Crack (Mabe's version)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Set against the striking backdrop of Rebel Wall, Large Crack (Mabe's version) offers a solid 100-foot Trad climb that blends chimney moves with crack placements. This moderate route rewards precise technique and careful protection, making it an inviting challenge for climbers building their crack confidence."

Large Crack (Mabe's version): A Classic Moderate Challenge at Rebel Wall

Large Crack (Mabe's version) offers climbers a straightforward but engaging pitch at Golden’s Clear Creek Canyon, tucked into the rugged Rebel Wall sector. Spanning roughly 100 feet, this single-pitch Trad route presents an inviting blend of chimney moves and crack technique, all framed by Colorado’s sharply etched sandstone cliffs. The climb begins by navigating a roomy chimney that demands a confident exit—the crux where your body pushes to find purchase before shifting left onto a crack that leads upward. Above this section, a generous #4 Camalot-sized crack awaits your rack, providing solid protection and a welcome rhythm to the ascent.

The rock itself feels reassuring underfoot and hand, typical of Clear Creek’s moderate grit, and while the route is straight in line with classic Trad principles, it has a distinctly accessible feel for intermediate climbers eager to test their crack skills. Expect a secure placement with a mix of natural gear and a fixed pin that punctuates the climb, although you should be ready to assemble a full standard rack up to a #4 Camalot. Anchors are minimal; the established belay exists only if you traverse towards the adjacent Body English anchor, so coming prepared for a walk-off or rappel is wise.

Beyond the technical beta, the approach to Rebel Wall is as much part of the experience as the climb itself. The trail to Clear Creek snakes through dry scrub with intermittent shade and sun, rewarding hikers with panoramic views that stretch across the Front Range. Whether you visit in spring or early fall, the temperatures are comfortably cool, making for enjoyable climbing conditions.

For those plotting this moderate adventure, hydration and footwear are paramount—rock shoes with good crack sensitivity marry well with climbing gloves if you prefer to protect your hands in the chimney section. Timing your ascent mid-morning can provide optimal light without overexposure.

This route stands out as an excellent introduction to Rebel Wall's climbing style, offering both a physical and mental workout that emphasizes trusting your placements and moving smoothly through chimney and crack transitions. It’s approachable yet rewarding, a solid choice for those summiting their Trad skills or simply savoring the sport in Golden’s accessible wilderness.

Climber Safety

Watch your foot placements during the chimney exit where holds can be less obvious—rock is solid but demands precise movement. The lack of a fixed anchor at the summit means careful planning for descent or belay transitions is essential.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach offers a light scramble with some loose rock; sturdy footwear recommended.

Hydrate well—spring and fall provide the best temperatures for climbing here.

Start your climb mid-morning to avoid excessive sun exposure on the wall.

Bring gloves if you prefer added hand protection for the chimney section.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, this climb sits at a comfortable threshold for moderate Trad routes in Clear Creek Canyon. The crux focusing on chimney exit and subsequent leftward move feels well-earned, requiring solid technique but without undue stiffness. For those familiar with local climbs at Rebel Wall, this route parallels others in difficulty but stands out for that memorable chimney sequence.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack is necessary up to a #4 Camalot to protect the route’s sizeable crack near the top. There’s one fixed pin mid-route, but no fixed anchors on top unless you traverse towards the Body English anchor.

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Tags

chimney
crack climbing
moderate
single pitch
trad gear
Clear Creek Canyon
Golden Colorado