HomeClimbingLamb's Prey

Lamb's Prey: A Classic Trad Challenge in Colorado's South Platte

Evergreen, Colorado United States
crack climbing
chimney
multi-pitch
traditional gear
slab
routefinding
South Platte
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Lamb's Prey
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lamb's Prey offers a rewarding mix of cracks, slabs, and routefinding on five pitches in Colorado’s South Platte. Starting with the most technical pitches, this line challenges climbers with sustained 5.9 moves and varied terrain, culminating in a solid traditional adventure with dependable protection and accessible descent."

Lamb's Prey: A Classic Trad Challenge in Colorado's South Platte

Lamb's Prey takes you into the heart of the South Platte’s rugged cliffs, offering a compelling blend of crack climbs, slabs, and careful routefinding that tests both mind and muscle. Located at Sheep's Nose on West Creek, this five-pitch trad route demands steady technique and a clear head, especially across its initial pitches where the difficulty peaks. The approach starts at the base marked by two prominent trees—your gateway into a vertical world carved from stone. Pitch one begins just right of Lost in Space, where a short chimney leads to a large rock base beneath a subtly hiding grassy crack. The climb presses upward through this crack system before working left beneath a broad, slanting roof, where a solid belay notch awaits. The moves here require both finesse on face holds and commitment to the crack climbing at 5.9 difficulty.

The second pitch deviates up a thin crack that disappears over a bulge, adding a bit of sustained tension as you squeeze through. Just right lies an alternative 10b variation, but the classic ascent continues past the bulge into a wider, block-strewn crack, allowing you to rest in a roomy alcove beneath a five-foot roof. Pitches one and two set a clear tone: technical, varied, and rewarding. Beyond these, the route eases slightly into moderate terrain filled with cracks and slab sections.

Pitch three offers a strategic traverse right around a small roof to link crack systems and belts out above three solid pitons. At 5.8+ this section feels approachable after the early crux, but still demands attention on gear placement and footwork. The fourth pitch stretches about 170 feet, carrying you through a mix of cracks and a 5.7 slab with runout sections, culminating at a grassy, bush-lined ledge perfect for regrouping and soaking in the surrounding environment.

The final pitch swings left around a prominent block via a left-slanting crack, then eases off into mellow scrambling that leads you to the summit. The descent is straightforward, a mild downclimb off the back side that doesn’t require ropes but calls for care on loose ground.

Protection on Lamb's Prey leans on a standard rack reaching to a #3 Camalot, with additional gear like wires and #1 Friends recommended by guidebook author Hubbel. Medium hexes, stoppers, and tri-cams round out a rack that enables safe placements on varied features. Routefinding is key here—while gear placements provide confidence, knowing when to move left or right can save time and energy.

Situated in a dynamic climbing zone that blends open exposures with the quiet hum of nature, Lamb's Prey demands respect but rewards with long lines, solid pro, and a tangible connection to the stone wall. Whether you’re sharpening crack technique or simply after an extended day of mixed traditional climbing, this route offers both challenges and a satisfying sense of altitude gain and achievement. Keep hydration close, start early to avoid afternoon heat on sun-exposed slabs, and wear shoes that balance sensitivity with support.

Though the rating registers at 5.9, the efforts intensify where crack widths change abruptly, requiring precise finger and hand jams. The route isn’t excessively stiff but a defined crux at the start pushes the technical bar higher. If you’ve climbed Stegosaurus or other local 5.9s, expect a similar blend of technicality and exposure, though Lamb’s Prey introduces more variety with its chimney and slab sequences.

Safety hinges on steady placement of gear, especially in cracks where protection can be deceptive. Loose blocks near ledges and occasional runouts on slabs urge vigilance. Seasonal conditions affect friction; early spring and fall provide ideal temps, while summer afternoon sun can heat the stone uncomfortably. Approach from the well-marked Sheep’s Nose trailhead, and allow 30-40 minutes through mixed forest and scree.

With an adventurous spirit and solid rack, Lamb's Prey calls those ready to engage with Colorado’s textured rock faces in a journey that’s practical and packed with moments of movement that keep you tuned in to the mountain’s pulse.

Climber Safety

Loose rock is occasionally present near ledges, and the 5.7 slab features some runout sections that require care. Always double-check gear placements, especially in thinner cracks where protection options narrow. Avoid climbing in wet or icy conditions to maintain solid friction.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid sun-heated slabs on afternoon pitches.

Hydrate well—the route’s length and exposure can dehydrate even in cool weather.

Watch for loose rock near ledges, particularly on the slab pitch.

Approach through Sheep's Nose trailhead; allow 30-40 minutes for the approach.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Although graded 5.9, the route includes a notable crux in the first two pitches that challenges finger strength and technical crack climbing. The grade isn’t overly stiff but demands attentive placement and footwork. Those familiar with local 5.9 routes like Stegosaurus will find similar levels of sustained difficulty mixed with varied features.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard rack to #3 Camalot, including wires, #1 Friends, medium hexes, stoppers, and tri-cams. Protection sites vary with crack width; wider cams and secure placements will keep you confident through the climbs.

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Tags

crack climbing
chimney
multi-pitch
traditional gear
slab
routefinding
South Platte