"Lack Crack on Turkey Rocks delivers a concise, finger-testing trad climb with a pair of cruxes that challenge balance and technique. This approachable 5.8 route is a practical and rewarding choice for climbers eager to explore South Platte’s distinct granite lines."
Perched on the rugged stone of Turkey Rocks within Colorado’s South Platte corridor, Lack Crack offers a short but engaging trad climb that demands both focus and finesse. This 70-foot pitch opens with a narrowing crack that tests your finger strength and commitment early on—a sharp welcome to anyone approaching at 5.8 difficulty. The initial crux is the delicate squeeze through that thinning crack, requiring precise hand jams and controlled movement to bypass a looming overhang. Once past this obstacle, the route veers left, stepping onto a comfortable ledge where the rock eases underfoot and breath returns.
From here, the climb shifts tone as you ascend a slab of solid stone, its texture offering enough friction to move confidently with steady balance. But the route saves a second challenge for its upper sections: another overhang, a pinch point demanding core engagement and a tactical sequence to negotiate. This upper crux often proves the true test for partners scouting the climb together, highlighting the route’s mixed demands of strength and technique.
After clearing this final hurdle, the finish ride is a gradual walk up slick slabby terrain, where the granite feels smooth beneath each step. A sturdy tree awaits at the top, providing a natural and secure belay anchor to wrap up the pitch. For those seeking to escape the usual crowd and taste the character of South Platte’s moderate trad routes, Lack Crack delivers with straightforward access and a clean line of climbing.
The area’s quiet atmosphere pairs well with the exposed rock and distant views across the foothills. The climb’s brief length means it’s approachable for a half-day outing, especially if you’re pairing it with nearby routes on Turkey Rocks. Packing a standard rack up to #4 cam is all you need, alongside slings to build your anchor. Footwear with good edging capacity will make the slab sections feel safe, while a light touch helps negotiate the narrow crack and overhang moves.
Timing your climb to catch morning sun on the rocks works well; the south-facing wall warms up quickly but remains manageable late spring through early fall. Be ready for changing wind conditions atop the ridgeline, which can add a brisk edge to your belay. The approach is fairly short and straightforward, following established trails from Turkey Perch parking nearby, allowing you to spend more of your time where it counts—on the rock.
For anyone balancing a desire to sharpen crack skills without a commitment to big walls, Lack Crack offers a crisp, direct challenge. Its blend of technical sections and accessible length makes it a solid entry point into South Platte’s climbing landscape, with enough character to leave a lasting impression.
Watch for rockfall near the overhang sections, especially if climbing with a partner below. The anchor tree is solid but can sway in strong winds—always double-check anchor security and avoid loose gear near the belay ledge.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.
Wear shoes with solid edging for the slab portions.
Double-check your anchor slings and gear placements on the upper overhang.
Expect a brisk wind at the belay spot near the tree—dress accordingly.
Bring a standard trad rack up to #4 cams, plus slings for building anchors. Your gear will see good placements, especially in the crack, so bring a range of sizes to handle the narrowing sections.
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