HomeClimbingKyle Hudie Route

Kyle Hudie Route at Nicolum Knob

Fraser Valley, Canada
trad crack
slab climbing
arete
footless mantel
single pitch
exposed slab
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Kyle Hudie Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Kyle Hudie Route delivers a crisp trad climb blending crack, slab, and arete in the quiet wilderness of Nicolum Knob. With technical moves over thin flakes and a footless mantel crux, this 120-foot pitch invites climbers to test precision gear placements against stunning valley views."

Kyle Hudie Route at Nicolum Knob

Kyle Hudie Route on Nicolum Knob offers a focused trad climb that unites technical edge and natural grace against the backdrop of British Columbia’s Fraser Valley. The ascent begins with a straightforward 5.6 crack known from First Blood, a gentle introduction that quickly transitions into more demanding terrain. As you shift right onto a narrow flake, the route’s defining arete emerges—framing your climb with sharp angles and slabby features that test footwork and balance. The slab pitches upward, growing steeper until you reach the bouldery crux, where thin slab climbing past bolts challenges both precision and nerve. Moving right around the arete, you'll face an almost footless mantel that deposits you onto a sizeable ledge, a brief moment to regroup before the final slabby stretch that leads to a bolt belay among trees.

This single pitch, stretching 120 feet, demands careful gear placement with protection up to 1 inch complemented by five bolts securing key sections. For those willing to push on, the route offers a less-traveled second pitch across a moss-lined slab and over a detached flake, a quiet transition zone with moderate 5.6 moves and sparse protection, reaching a ledge below other well-known climbs like Land Down Under and Life on a Chain.

The setting of Nicolum Knob provides a calm wilderness feel, with the Fraser Valley spreading below and distant peaks framing the horizon. Early morning or late afternoon light softens the rock face, making cool shade in summer’s heat and warming surfaces in cooler months. Approaching the route is straightforward, with well-marked trails delivering you through forested slopes where the crunch of pine needles underfoot sets a deliberate pace.

Climbers should prioritize solid footwear and bring nuts and cams in varied sizes to negotiate the crack and thin face sections, ensuring security on gear placements amid the slab’s often slippery surfaces. Hydration and timing your climb to avoid peak afternoon sun will enhance comfort and focus on the rock. The descent involves a controlled rappel to the base, requiring attention to anchoring points and rope management around trees.

Kyle Hudie Route suits climbers looking for a single-pitch challenge that blends crack climbing, slab movement, and technical mantle moves. It calls for experience in trad protection and comfort on vertical slabs, framed by the quiet energy of southern British Columbia’s outside climbing scene. This is a climb that invites steady focus, rewarding precision with moments of smooth flow along the slab, all set within a rugged mountain environment where the landscape seems to invite challenge and respect in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Watch for slick moss on the optional second pitch and take care with footing on thin slab sections. Anchors are solid but double-check bolt conditions before the crux mantel. The descent rappel requires careful rope management around tree rappels.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the slabby face.

Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes for thin slab moves.

Bring a full trad rack up to 1 inch, plus a few quickdraws for bolts.

Scout the second pitch before committing; moss can make holds slippery.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating feels justified by the bouldery crux on thin slab and the demanding mantel move. The initial crack section is easier but serves as a warm-up before the technical upper slabs. Compared to other routes in the Fraser Valley, Kyle Hudie demands steady footwork but the protection eases risk, making it a solid challenge for intermediate to advanced climbers.

Gear Requirements

Bring gear protecting up to 1 inch, plus five bolts spaced along the route. Prepare for thin protection placements and rely on nuts and cams to secure flake and crack sections safely.

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Tags

trad crack
slab climbing
arete
footless mantel
single pitch
exposed slab