"Kurihara at Canmore Wall offers a solid multi-pitch sport climb combining technical granite moves with a deeply moving backstory. Stretching over 1,400 feet, the route balances steady approachability with challenging pitches in a stunning Rocky Mountain setting."
The Kurihara route at Canmore Wall offers a compelling blend of technical sport climbing and heartfelt tribute to Jiro Kurihara, a climber who cherished this corner of the Canadian Rockies. Standing at the base, rugged granite rises in a broad sweep along the Bow Valley, the cliffs alive with the crisp alpine air and the subtle sound of wind threading through pines. The approach moves steadily through a forested trail that gives way to open views, where the rock waits, cool and textured under your fingers.
Stretching over 1,400 feet and split into ten carefully bolted pitches, this climb challenges with varied terrain—from quiet slab sections to steep corners and exposed ramps. Each pitch unfolds a different character: the opening 5.6 pitch offers a welcoming start up a short gully, easing you into the thicker technical work ahead. As you ascend, the route snakes rightward through a corner (5.9) and then follows a ridge line that provides a moment of breath before the more demanding sections.
The mid-route pitches escalate in difficulty, ranging from 5.7 to a sustained 5.10d, rewarding climbers who can read the rock and balance patience with power. The climbing traverses features that dare you to stay low, swing out right cautiously, and manage tricky slab moves that test balance and footwork. The anchors—each equipped with two bolts—stand ready for smooth transitions and secure rappels.
Gear-wise, the route demands 14 quickdraws, some extended for tricky clipping zones, and two 60-meter half or twin ropes, essential for the rappels that deliver you safely to the base. Protection is straightforward, with all anchors set for descent, eliminating the need for traditional gear placements. The rock here is solid but expect occasional loose flakes, especially near the chimneys on the top pitches.
Seasonally, shoulder months of late spring through early fall are optimal. Early morning starts help you beat afternoon heat and maximize shade on steeper faces, while late evenings lend a golden glow across the Bow Valley. The rock’s northeast aspect means sun warms the wall nicely but rarely overwhelms, making it comfortable for sustained climbing.
Locals advise scouting the trailhead coordinates at 51.05655, -115.38094 to prepare your logistical approach. The climb rewards careful planning: bring ample water, wear sturdy approach shoes, and anticipate chilly winds as you reach higher elevations. The descent requires attention—10 rappels using double ropes lead down, with a single bolt anchor marking the final drop close to the cliff’s edge. Staying alert and methodical here is key to a safe exit.
Kurihara stands not just as a route but a connection to the spirit of a climber who loved these mountains. Each pitch invites engagement with both rock and story, blending the adventure of bold moves and the solemn respect for the landscape and its history. Whether you’re polishing your 5.10 skills or seeking a multilayered alpine sport route, this climb challenges and rewards in equal measure—with the backdrop of Canada’s rugged beauty and a living tribute etched in stone.
Despite solid granite, some sections especially near chimneys at the top contain loose flakes—helmet use and cautious movement are advised. The rappel descent requires care; rope management and anchor checks are crucial to avoid trouble near ledge edges and the final single bolt anchor.
Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and avoid afternoon sun exposure on the wall.
Wear sturdy approach shoes; the trail passes mixed terrain with loose rock near the base.
Double-check rope lengths—two 60-meter ropes ensure safe rappelling off all pitches.
Watch for loose rock sections near the chimney in the top pitches; helmets are essential.
Bring 14 quickdraws including a few long draws for awkward clips. Two 60-meter half or twin ropes are critical for the full descent by rappel. No traditional gear is required for protection since all anchors are bolted and anchors are rappel-ready.
Upload your photos of Kurihara (Jiro Kurihara Memorial Route) and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.