"Kor-Van Tongeren challenges climbers with its raw, alpine character on Hallett Peak. This eight-pitch trad route balances technical cracks, chimney work, and loose rock, rewarding those who seek rugged, off-the-beaten-path climbs with stunning mountain exposure."
Kor-Van Tongeren stands as a quiet contender amid the rugged granite faces of Hallett Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. This eight-pitch trad route offers a gripping experience for climbers who seek alpine adventure with a serious edge. Its location, carved high on the mountain’s eastern flank, is accessible but demands respect for both its physical and mental challenges. From the first pitch, where a right-leaning slot beckons climbers away from the familiar scars of other routes, the rock demands careful attention. Old slings peek from cracks, marking moves past decades but also hinting at the route’s obscure standing.
The route splits quickly: a wide crack invites on the right while a steep roof overhead promises technical climbing. Opting for the roof delivers a solid 5.8 climbing test, featuring moves that stretch both your skills and confidence, ending on a ledge that sets up a traverse to a groove shaped like a shallow left-facing corner. The middle pitches inject a dose of realism: many holds feel precarious, loose and untrustworthy, it’s raw territory. The suggestion to take the 5.9+ R variation provides a stark alternative—a line characterized by pristine rock but exposed, runout climbing that demands nerve and precision.
The chimney pitches test your finesse, inviting you to work your way upward through narrow cracks and shifting rock, before confronting a steep headwall that caps the chimney’s chimney system. On pitch six, a right-hand crack and groove lead the way up a small, sharp spire — a crux of 5.9 difficulty that requires steady fingers and a cool head. From here, the route’s complexity deepens. Topo maps diverge, but experienced climbers know that a 30-foot rappel drops you to a ledge, setting the scene for the final pitches.
It’s pitch seven that rewards the bold: easy terrain at first gives way to a thin finger crack splitting the headwall. A fixed nut protects a dynamic move around a loose chockstone, breaking into less steep ground beyond. This pitch’s 5.9 rating conceals a thrilling balance of delicate technique and adrenalized creativity, a highlight on a route that otherwise pushes patience and precision.
Kor-Van Tongeren isn’t for the casual adventurer or those expecting polished rock and effortless movement. It’s a climb that embraces its rawness and obscurity, offering moments of genuine beauty framed by rugged conditions and the wide, open sky of the Rockies. Ultimate success hinges as much on preparation and mental stamina as on physical climbing prowess. This is a route that rewards those who seek out the less traveled path, demanding adaptability, respect for loose rock, and steady gear placement.
While the rock often feels unsettled, climbers who carry a full range of cams from small to #3 Camalots, plus a solid rack of nuts, will find the necessary tools to protect these pitches—though many placements require tested judgment rather than straightforward gear slots. The climb’s alpine setting means variable weather, so early starts targeting stable morning conditions are advisable. And don’t forget: the descent calls for a careful rappel sequence that respects the route’s complex layout and lingering exposure.
Klappa peak and the Hallett massif cradle Kor-Van Tongeren with stunning views of Glacier Gorge and beyond, providing a powerful context to this demanding alpine test. With patience, respect for the rock, and a grounded approach, this route offers a memorable slice of Colorado traditional climbing that few others do.
Loose rock underfoot and handholds requires constant vigilance. Avoid pendulum falls near chockstones, and double-check your protection placements. Weather can shift quickly—afternoon thunderstorms pose a serious hazard at altitude. The descent involves a 30-foot rappel to a ledge; be sure to rig securely and test anchors carefully.
Start early to avoid afternoon winds and thunderstorms common in the Rockies.
Scout loose rock carefully before trusting holds or placing protection.
Link pitches 3 and 4 if you want to move more fluidly, but be prepared for sustained 5.8 climbing on loose terrain.
Use Gillett’s topo for the most reliable route details, especially around pitch transitions and rappel locations.
Bring one to two of each cam from small sizes up to #3 Camalots, plus a set of nuts. Although a #4 Camalot and RPs were carried on the ascent, they weren’t necessary. Protection requires careful placement due to some loose blocks and tricky corners.
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